Friday, March 22, 2013

Dining by Design: Full Circle with Fishtail

Dessert heaven! Cheesecake lollipops & tart
“We need to make plans for the next few week before you leave,” one of my colleagues told me yesterday.

“Weeks?” I asked, bewildered.  As I started to do the math in my head, I realized that I have less than two weeks at my current job.  I’ll literally be on a plane at the end of the month.  I am sure I will be back in the future, but my stay right now is indefinite; I will keep on chasing my dreams as long as the doors of opportunity keep opening.  With so little time remaining, I have been trying to make it a point to see the people I love and visit the places I adore before taking off.

It seems that David Burke’s Fishtail embodies my journey over the past year.  This has been a time of wild transition: moving out of my childhood home, having my parents move to a different state, beginning teaching, struggling to find a job in the economy, and now a radical career change.  Somehow, it seems that all of these roads have intersected at Fishtail.  The night before I was offered my first high school job, I was sitting in Fishtail with my father seriously discussing the future.  On another occasion, I picked up a catalog of Gotham’s Writer’s Workshop classes from the dispenser outside the restaurant.  That reengaged me with the world of food writing and helped steer me toward CTBites.  It therefore felt fitting to have one of my final forays into the city unfold there.
Two friends from college and I met for night of festivities on Monday night.  I am so fortunate to have these two ladies in my life; we became fast friends in college and maintained our friendship despite time and distance.  Ironically, I met both in different parts of my college experience; one comes from English courses and the other from freshman orientation.   But we still get along harmoniously and make a great team.

When we arrived, we received an amuse from the kitchen, a delicious play on an egg roll.  Next, we ordered flutes of the Habitual Happiness, a drink I have often blogged about.  It is one of my favorites on the menu and contains elderflower liquor, prossecco, lavender, and a hibiscus flower.  However, we made another incredible discovery on the drinks list.  I am not usually a fan of Pinot Noir, but I decided to try a taste of David Burke’s own version: House of Burke Pinot Noir.  It was spectacular!  It was round overall, but had a mild touch of tannin that interacted with the notes of smoke and pepper.  The notes were deeper than the Pinots I usually shy away from.  There were dark fruits woven with tufts of smoke and chocolate.  I highly recommend it, and would certainly order it again.
Escargot
Next, we ordered the escargot appetizer.  I am ashamed to admit that I have never had escargot before, but it has been on my bucket list!  As an adventurous eater and a foodie, escargot is a must!  The preparation proved delectable.  A sauce with hints of lemon grass and garlic brought out the salty succulence of the snails.  A mix of herbs and crumbs gave it a slight texture.  First snail experience?  Roaring success!
A single serving of the whole bass
For dinner, we split a full sea bass.  We had planned to order one of Burke’s famous whole fresh fish, but the waiter’s descriptive, energetic description of the bass sold us on that particular variety.  The fish is stuffed with herbs and baked in banana leaves.  The method imparts those exciting flavors into the fish itself without masking the protein with thick sauces or spicy crusts.  The server presented the fish to us whole and then returned to the kitchen where he cut it up into individual servings.  It was savory and delicious, literally melting in my mouth and flaking slightly with the touch of my fork.

Apple tart
Cheesecake lollipops
No meal is complete without dessert, or, in our case, many desserts!!  We had the incredible chance to try multiple decadent offerings from the menu.  We ordered the can o’ cake, the dish responsible for hooking me on David Burke to begin with.  (A TV demo of the dish seemed to good to witness on a screen so I set out to try the creation in person a few years ago.)  All of the toppings are incredible, but my favorite are the rice pearls.  They add a slight crunch to the otherwise moist chocolate layers.  In addition, we received the apple tart.  I thoroughly enjoyed it.  Some tarts come across as overly sweet or employ artificial fruits.  Burke’s was anything but that.  Although we were in a sleek, modern restaurant, it maintained elements of rusticity.  It was driven by the apples themselves, some flour, and spices as opposed to copious amounts of sugar or filling.  Finally, we experienced David Burke’s cheesecake lollipops.  They come in three varieties: raspberry, tuxedo, and chocolate.  A bubble gum whipped cream accompanied them- and it did taste remarkably like bubblegum!!  The presentation alone makes this offering unmissable.

Our server adorns our can o cake tableside
The evening ended with the chance to speak with Chef Ed Cotton, a Top Chef finalist.  The conversation with him really gave me the extra push of confidence I needed to charge at this next chapter of my life full on.  Cotton previously worked for Todd English at the Massachusetts location of Figs.  He provided words of encouragement and a few pearls of advice.  I am always so struck my the generosity and collaboration between chefs.  I am a fledgling member of the food world, but Cotton and other chefs have graciously shared their knowledge with me.

Although one of David Burke’s claims to fame is his takeout operation entitled “Burke in a Box,” it seems that every trip to Fishtail has me thinking outside of the box.  It’s a place where I can consider my future objectively, but also have the courage to embrace the passions that propel me forward.

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