Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Cooking Creations: My Twist on Border Grill's Yucatan Pork!

Yucatan Pork at the Border Grill, Las Vegas, NV
When I went to Vegas, I thought that I would be able to get to one restaurant of my choice.  I felt like the luckiest girl in the world when my friend, Nancy, and I wound up with one more full day in Vegas and an extra dinner opportunity before jumping on our red eye flights much later in the night!  I threw a couple of possibilities out there, but ultimately we decided to return to Mandalay Bay to eat at Border Grill, home to Top Chef Master Contestants and acclaimed chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger.  The restaurant is referred to as a "Mexican Restaurant."  The choice of cuisine might seem interesting coming from two American women, and they admit to first encountering Latin food in French restaurants.  Nancy, a Mexican, was highly skeptical about the authenticity of the food, and I admit that I too had my doubts.  However, the food proved that Mary Sue and Susan do Mexican food proud.  I think I actually heard Nancy say, "This tastes like my Mom's!"

I ordered the Yucatan Pork, which consisted of a generous serving of braised pork (which comes shredded apart and tender), 3 homemade tortillas, and banana peel on top.  The large portion elated me, as I often find myself paying steep prices for bite-sized amounts of food at established restaurants.  The pork was extremely unique, and I enjoyed it immensely.  It was flavorful and spicy, but not with the hot spices I typically associate with Mexican cuisine.  Instead, it had the wonderful rich tastes of things like cinnamon.  Orange played a prominent role in the dish; there were actual orange segments within the pork itself.

That night, the dish came with honey-glazed brussels sprouts and black beans.  The brussels sprouts literally melted in my mouth.  I was not expecting to be blown away by a humble brussels sprout, but it was the first thing I tasted on the plate and Nancy was amused to hear the string of accolades that it inspired.

I did add a serving of guacamole to my meal, and I was surprised that the dish itself did not come with it.  Since the pork was so rich and hot, I really needed the cool, creamy guacamole to compliment it.  The guacamole made the dish perfection.  I definitely recommend the Yucatan pork, but I would advise you to order a small serving of guacamole on the side.

If you read my blog, you probably have come to realize I am a huge food dork (and am totally honest about it haha!)  One of my favorite things to do is to try to recreate super-tasty dishes that I experience at restaurants.  (Not for mass consumption or commercial gain- just for the joy of my family's kitchen table!)  Sometimes the restaurant has a recipe that helps me out, other times I have to do it from scratch.  In this case, I found that Mary Sue and Susan had posted a recipe for Yucatan Pork Tacos on their official website: http://marysueandsusan.com/news/Jun09/news061809_1.htm .  (I later found their recipe on Oprah's website as well... and you know if Oprah endorses something it's probably worth it!  )  As for the brussels sprouts, I'd need to try to recreate the glaze- a simple task.

I think it's awesome that restaurants post recipes on their websites and I admire the chefs who share versions of their creations with the public.  But *warning*: do not get overconfident just because you have a recipe in your hand!  Some of the recipes require a lot of work (and I suspect sometimes restaurants share things because they know no one will ever truly be able to make them at home so no clientele will be lost).  This recipe certainly certainly needed a lot of effort, but it was worth it.

I did decide to adapt the recipe, which I frequently do.  Mary Sue and Susan call for pork butt, a slow cooking cut of pork that braises so that it can be pulled apart to resemble barbequed pulled pork.  I really love pork tenderloin though.  I decided that I would use their spices, ingredients, and overall cooking methods, but alter the cooking times, some of the marinading, and the final presentation to account for pork tenderloin.

Creating the Achiote Paste
Step 1: Locate Achiote Paste
First item on the ingredients list: 1/2 cup achiote paste.  I looked for a note, an asterisk, something to give me a little bit of explanation, but found none.  An internet search revealed that Achiote paste is "a thick, deep-red seasoning also known as recado colorado" that is  sold under several brand names and need only be mixed with bitter orange juice, lime juice, or vinegar before use." (chow.com).  Well, those "several" brand names are hard to find!  I visted the local supermarket, Stop and Shop, Grade A, and Whole Foods to no avail.  I finally wound up finding Achiote seed (but no paste) at a Wegman's on a trip to upstate New York.  I figured that if I had the seed I could find a recipe for paste and create one myself.  I located such a recipe on Gourmet Sleuth, and a few crosschecks revealed that the recipe seemed culturally authentic: http://www.gourmetsleuth.com/Recipes/Mexican-Spices--Condiments-847/Achiote-Paste-Recipe-260.aspx .  The recipe says it makes 1/4 of a cup but the Yucatan Pork requires 1/2 cup.  I found that the amounts on Gourmet Sleuth paste did yield 1/2 a cup though.  I also chose to use white wine vinegar with a splash of orange juice where you are given the option.

*Note Achiote seeds can also be referred to as Annatto Seeds
My package of frozen banana leaves

Step 2: Locate Banana Leaves
This was almost as much of an ordeal as tracking down the achiote paste, but I admit that I am partially to blame!  I visited Whole Foods, several commercial supermarkets, and even a corner Guatamalen market (they were shocked to see me there!) with no success.  I finally found frozen banana leaves at Grade A.  It turns out that while fresh banana leaves are a rarity, Goya makes frozen banana leaves that are available in most frozen food aisles.  All you have to do is roll them out, let them thaw, and pat them dry.

Step 3: COOK! CREATE!
The Yucatan pork requires several steps.  It, along with sides of brussels sprouts and guacamole, required a full afternoon in the kitchen.  The pork must marinate in a combination of achiote paste and other ingredients, which of course must be prepared first, for at least 4 hours.  The recipe calls for it to rest at room temperature, but mine went right in the fridge because we're in the midst of an epic heatwave and I wasn't taking any chances!  One of the best tips I've ever gotten is to do all marinating in a Ziploc bag- that way you can shake and distribute liquids easily as the day goes on.

While the pork sits, be prepared to roast chiles, char tomatoes, and char onions.  The recipe provides instructions for how to broil, steam, and peel the chiles.

Once all of the individual components of the dish were ready, I was ready to assemble them for the oven!  Building the dish up was a lot of fun!  I started by lining a glass casserole dish with banana leaves.  I then put in my 2   1-lb pork tenderloins that were marinating in the fridge.  I poured the marinade in with them to add moisture and flavor.  Next, I placed the roasted vegatables on top of the pork.  It looked like this:
Casserole dish en route to oven

One more layer of banana leaves went on top.  Then, I wrapped foil tightly around the entire thing.  That all went into the oven.

Step 4: Alter Cooking for a Pork Tenderloin
The USDA recommends cooking a pork tenderloin at 350 F for 20-30 minutes per pound.  The ultimate goal for the meat to reach 145 F, or just under that in the dish as it continues to cook when it rests.  Border Grill's Yucatan Pork derives much of its essence from the slow roasting period though.  The flavors develop and ingredients like the banana leaves, garlic, and vegetables do not burn.  Therefore, I lowered the temperature to 300 F.  I checked my meat frequently with a meat thermometer until it reached just shy of 145.  It wound up cooking for about an hour and 20 minutes.

I served the pork in 6 oz sliced servings.  I spooned 1-2 tablespoons of marinade over each.  A braised pork butt would have retained more liquid, and I wanted my version of the dish to still have that moisture and flavor.




And the brussels sprouts?
Nothing fancy... but good!  The key ingredient in Border Grill's brussels sprouts was the honey.  I made a glaze with honey and my favorite compliment to it: sherry vinegar.  You can make as much glaze as you need for the amount of sprouts you have.  It's a simple 3:1 ratio of vinegar:honey.  I boiled the sprouts for 2 minutes, then transferred them to a nonstick skillet with cooking spray.  I added 1/4 cup water, covered it, put it on medium, and let them cook up for 8 minutes.  I then added the glaze and let them go for another 1-2 minutes, stirring occassionally.  They were not as good as the ones at Border Grill... and I doubt any vegetable I ever encounter will be as singularly impressive as that one morsel I had there!!  But they were comparable and a nice side nonetheless.

Guacamole
Brussels Sprouts
 
And the guacamole?
I have tried numerous guacamole recipes (including Eva Longoria's!), but I always come back to the guacamole recipe from the Williams Sonoma catalogue: http://www.williams-sonoma.com/recipe/guacamole.html?cm_src=RECIPESEARCH .  I always add a bit more onion and cilantro, though.  No worries if you don't have the mortar and pestle they're trying to sell (I don't!)... ripe avocados and diced vegetables will mix easily with just a bowl and spoon.  If my avocados are not ripe and need some encouraging, I've also turned to my food processor.

And the WINE...
2009 Treleaven Dry Rose from King Ferry Winery on Cayuga Lake in New York.  I was so fortunate to discover this amazing local winery during my time spent at Cornell.  Each wine is refined, carefully made, and elegant.  The Rose is a true prize- a throwback to the dry Roses of the past before Rose became so commercialized.  The newest vintage is different than the 09, but still a true beauty.

The Verdict
I am the first to admit when a cooking creation goes awry.  I try to critique my food with as much honesty and objectiveness as I approach anything else.  With the exception of a few larger brussels sprouts that could have been more tender, this meal was a homerun.  The flavors of the pork were exceptional, and the dish is one of the greatest I think I have ever made.  It was exciting to put my own twist (tenderloin) on such a successful restaurant dish.  Our versions and approaches were very different, but they both resulted in amazing products.  Thank you to Mary Sue, Susan, and the Border Grill for a wonderful dinner and the chance to continue the fun at home!


By the way, that last picture is what my plate looked like at the end of my meal at the Border Grill.  "Oh my God!" the waiter exclaimed when he came to clear the plates.  "I'm sorry," he stammered, "But it's just that I've only seen 2 or 3 people finish it... and none of them look like you."  Haha!  So good!  And it had been a long day of walking!

Border Grill, Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas: http://www.mandalaybay.com/dining/border-grill/

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Dining by Design (Vegas Edition Part 1!): Fleur by Hubert Keller

Ahi Tuna Tacos
Getting to Vegas has been a dream of mine for a long time: food, shows, dancing, sunshine... fun!  When two college friends that I had not seen in over a year invited me to join them for a weekend there, I quickly jumped at the chance.  I had missed them so much and the destination sounded perfect.  I realized as I packed that I was probably destined to get to Vegas at some point; I was suprised at just how many items in my closet were bedazzled, pink, or sparkley :).

One of my friends is a Vegas veteran and took care of planning the weekend for us (or as much as you can "plan" in Vegas.)  At the risk of stepping on her toes, I told her I had one demand: that we eat at Fleur by Hubert Keller at some point on the trip.  I promised to go along with anything else they all devised so long as I could live out a foodie fantasy.  They graciously agreed despite their general indifference to the culinary world and our humble budgets.  (Which I love you all for... thanks, girlies!)

One of my friends and I ordered the ahi tuna tacos.  I had seen them recommended in several reviews of the restaurant, and the waiter told us they were one of the most popular items.  The majority of Fleur's menu consists of "small plates," but we were surprised at just how small the tacos themselves were.  (The picture at the beginning of the post makes them seem deceptively large).  The bites were tasty though.  The serrano chili gave each taco an especially spicy kick at the end that packed a punch.  The touch of avocado cream was refreshing relief from the pepper and the tuna itself was pink, fresh, and lightly salted.  Overall, I would characterize the dish as "expected."  It was delicious to be sure, but I felt as though I had seen the presentation and experienced the flavor profile multiple times before.  I can certainly see why it is one of the "most popular" selections.  For the typical Vegas diner, it is highly accessible and easily understood.

Foie gras
For my second small plate, I decided to try something more gourmet.  I ordered the seared foie gras... which I am embarassed to admit was the first foie gras of my life!  I confess that I really wanted the foie gras torchon, which came with elderflower foam, but the server told me they were out of it that night.  I was slightly disappointed and do still wonder what that elderflower foam would have tasted like, but the seared foie gras proved to be a viable substitute.  The foie gras itself was cooked perfectly (or as far as I could tell being a foie gras newbie!) I loved the taste and will certainly be ordering foie gras in the future.

I have mixed feelings about the components of the dish itself.  I did love the pickled shitake mushrooms.  I have a slight obsession with pickling things (see my last post where I coveted the pickled cherries at Colicchio & Sons) and this was my first encounter with pickled mushrooms.  The earthiness of mushrooms certainly make them an appropriate choice for brine.  I didn't quite understand the three small piles of pineapple on the rim of the plate though.  Was I supposed to eat the pineapple alone? Add it to my fork?  Mix it with the sauce?  I ultimately used it as kind of a palate cleanser- eating it by itself between bites of the foie gras.  As for the sauce: it was sweet, rich, and pleasing on its own.  However, the foie gras and mushrooms came sitting in it, so some bites were saturated in it and overwhelmed by it as a result.  I would have liked it more if there was less sauce in the bowl, or if it had been more seperate from the foie gras and mushrooms.

Of all of the small plates sampled that night, I would give the crown to a dish one of my friends ordered: the ceci frito, or fried chickpeas.  At only $3 and with such a simple name, it could easily be overlooked.  This seemingly humble small plate turned out to be generous in portion and remarkable in flavor.  The lightly crisp chickpeas tasted of smokiness and spice.  I think it is a must have when dining at Fleur, and at that price there's really no reason not to order it.

Then came to dessert.  And all I have to say is OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD!!!  For those of you still reading at this point, strap in because I'm totally going to geek out.  I ordered the "pineapple carpaccio" which came with lime sorbet and cilantro granite.  THE CILANTRO GRANITE WAS THE GREATEST THING I HAVE EVER TASTED.  It looked kind of odd... a pile of green flakes sitting under some sorbet... but it was amazing!!  It had the spice of cilantro, a touch of sweetness from sugar, and an icy frozen finish.

Pineapple carpaccio with cilantro granite (the green component at right)
Have you ever played the game "Do you want to buy a duck?"  For those of you who have never been to summer camp... it's a circle game where a person turns to the person next to him and has the following conversation: "Do you want to buy a duck?"  "A what?"  "A duck."  "Does it quack?"  "Of course it quacks."  This goes around the entire circle.  Well, a variation of this game went around our circular table with the debut of the cilantro granite.  It started with me turning to my friend and went as follows:

Me: "You have to try this!"
Her: "What the hell is that?  It looks crazy!  No!"
Me: "Seriously."
Her: "Ok... OH MY GOD. THAT IS AMAZING! WHAT IS THAT?"

And then she turned to the person next to her and assumed my lines.  The person next to her protested as she did following almost the same script, but had the same wonderful epiphany.  And it went all the way around the table until we got back to me and everyone wanted my cilantro granite.  We all agreed that we would have eaten bowls and bowls of it by itself, but it was even better with the other parts of the dish: the lime sorbet and the thinly shaved pieces of pineapple.

(Question to Hubert Keller: I noticed that the oyster small plate comes with a "margarita sorbet."  Is there a difference between the margarita sorbet and the lime sorbet?")

It has been a few days since I came back from Vegas, and I can still not stop thinking about that cilantro granite.  I am so obsessed that I attempted to make my own today, but that's not exactly the kind of thing that has recipes available... or really any mention in the google-sphere.  I wound up blanching some cilantro, mincing it, soaking it in a simple sugar that I made, straining it, and freezing it.  It tasted OK but was nothing like what I experienced at Fleur.  (And now my hands reek of cilantro haha.)

At the end of our meal, I got the chance to meet the one and only Hubert Keller, the Top Chef Master himself.  I thanked him for the meal and dorked out a little bit when I told him I was a huge fan, a foodie, and a recreational cook who looked up to him.  He graciously posed for a picture (and even signed a piece of napkin that I could affix to my coveted chef's jacket when I got home haha).

Chef Hubert Keller and Me

I certainly enjoyed the meal and even my non-foodie friends frequently remarked on how exceptional it was throughout our vacation.  I left with a full stomach... and a newfound craving for cilantro granite.

Fleur by Hubert Keller
Located at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas, Nevada
Reserve Online (website below) or call 702.632.7200