Dining By Design: Colicchio & Sons (Again- but new and tasty as always!)

In a recent article for New York Magazine, Felix Salmon documented "pumpkin's rise to baconlike ubiquity."  (Side note: I would have though he would have noted its rise to salmon-like ubiquity.  Hehe.  If you know me, I'm allowed to make last name jokes for good reason....)  While I love fall and all of its amazing produce, pumpkin included, I have to agree with him.  Pumpkin seems everywhere... and overdone.  Burger King Japan offers the Pumpkin Burger, Dunkin Donuts has the pumpkin mocha, and every bistro serves up a version of pumpkin soup.  Even the most fervent pumpkin lovers are getting tired by this overcommercialization of the gourd.  However, I was reinvigorated by a recent dinner to one of my favorite restaurants in New York City, Colicchio & Sons.  The restaurant's pastry chef, Steven Collucci, delivered a delicious pepita brittle, proving that the pumpkin can be reimagined and reincarnated.

"Pepitas" are Mexican pumpkin seeds.  The research I've dug up has said there's no difference between the two... although if you have more specific information, I'd be interested to hear it!  The brittle is sweet and crisp like a traditional brittle, but actual small pumpkin seeds are baked into it. The result is a component that is not overtly pumpkin.  Instead of that sweet tang found in so many commercial pumpkin "treats," the earthy, toasted essence of the gourd comes through with each crunch.  It is subtle, elegant, and tastey.  The brittle is intended as an addition; it comes as a part of the panna cotta dessert.  Personally though, I would put it on everything or eat it plain!

In addition to saving the pumpkin, Colicchio & Sons also breathed new life into the autumn soup!  I once more want to state my love of fall produce.  However, I have grown tired by the influx of squash, pumpkin, and "fall harvest" soups on shelves and in restaurants.  Popularity inevitably leads to mass production which leads to a descrease in quality.  I'd lost hope.  Until my server offered me that night's special: a parsnip soup with a truffle vinaigrette.  Ummm... yes!  Parsnips!!  What a welcome change amidst the squash ambush!!  It seems so simple- a root vegetable, so why not use it for a change- but I'd never encountered it before.  And truffle vinaigrette?  Yes!  What a luxerious addition to a humble soup.  The dish was as incredible as I imagined.  It was the perfect texture.  It was not overwhelmingly thick or filling, which is a fear of mine when I order a soup as an appetizer.  It was tasty and satisfying while still leaving room for the subsequent courses.

My other conquests that evening included the beef tartare with smoked egg vinaigrette.  It's so hard for me to say I have a "favorite" at Colicchio & Sons.  Everything is so good and they always seem to add something new to the menu that I have to try.  However, if I had to pick, this would be it.  To my recollection, the is the only dish I have ordered more than once- over three times, in fact.  As a rule of thumb, I always try to order something new so I experience everything.  I only get things more than once if it's exceptional.  The smoked egg vinaigrette makes the dish.  The smokiness of the vinaigrette wafts through each bite.  Furthermore, I got to try the PEI mussels.  What a beautiful dish!  Fresh roasted tomatoes and lemongrass broth make it extremely elegant and flavorful.  The ratio is such that those components enhance the mussels rather than mask them. 

The Remi that I blogged so enthusiastically about a few months ago is sadly no longer available.  However, I did enjoy the Cinsault-Carignon Hochar Chateau Musar 2007 from Bekaa Valley Lebanon.  It is a red wine; deeper than a Pinot but lighter than a rich Cab.  I have admired Lebanese wines for several years, but they are not frequently added to wine lists, especially by the glass.  I was pleased to see this as an option, and it shows that Colicchio & Sons is willing to take risks when it comes to the list if the wine is of high quality.

The time in the restaurant is always a wonderful experience.  The setting is perfect; where else can you find a roaring fireplace on a crisp fall evening?  The entire crew you feel welcome from beginning to end.  Thank you for another amazing dinner!

Dining by Design: Greenwich Food & Wine Festival

Ace of Cakes, Duff Goldman, and me at Greenwich Food & Wine

 Time flies when you're having fun... and when you're just plain busy!!  Between starting a full-time job, moving, and contributing to another established online food blog, I've been negligent in creating new posts.  Fortunately, that busy-ness has also included fun!  Food fun!  My writing for CTBites took me to Barcelona Wine Bar, where I got to be inspired by wine manager Gretchen Thomas: http://www.ctbites.com/home/2012/10/9/gretchen-thomas-of-barcelona-restaurant-group-talks-wine.html .  That same weekend, I won a ticket to the Greenwich, Connecticut Food and Wine Festival.

The festival spanned from Thursday October 4 to Saturday October 6.  It celebrated the vibrant culinary scenes of both Fairfield and Westchester County.  Proceeds went to an excellent cause: The Hole in the Wall Gang Camp, founded by Paul Newman to help families struggling with serious illnesses.  There were specialized events, including Thursday Night's Wine Evening and Friday Night's Tasting Gala.  On Saturday, guests could experience the festival at large.  A "culinary village" boasted food, wine, and spirits from over 90 vendors while celebrity book signings and demonstrations unfolded in tents arond the park.  The afternoon culminated in an epic Burger Battle in which local restaurants tried to serve up the best patty to a panel of celebrity judges.  Heavyweights such as Ted Allen, Graham Elliot, and Duff Goldman were all on hand to sample the entries and share opinions with the crowd.


Ted Allen signs my coveted chef's jacket... it's getting full!

Festival participants had the chance to sample the burgers over the course of the evening.  Each entrant had a booth or a tent that distributed smaller versions of the patties the chefs had the chance to indulge in.  (Although I admit I did get to eat a full-sized, masterfully created burger when Duff slipped me a barely touched burger complete with foie gras!)  I made a point to wear my big girl pants and try at least a taste of all of the burgers available for posterity (OK, and for my own enjoyment, too.)  I know a good burger!!  Below are my winners and findings:

1. Best Burger Patty- In my opinion, the most important part of the burger is the meat itself.  It's got to be the perfect cut of meat... substantial in your mouth, yet tender in texture.  It must also be perfectly cooked:pink in the center and melt-in-your-mouth.  In terms of the patty, the Ginger Man swept me off my feet.  This humble pub outshone the competition with its succulent, moist, tender meat and perfectly toasted bun.  The burger was made to stand alone.  Unlike other vendors who added chutneys and exotic toppings, the Gingerman put out a simple spread of ketchups and mustards.  It was perfection!  For more information on the Gingerman and its locations in Norwalk and Greenwich, visit http://www.gingermannorwalk.com/

2. Best Topping/Addition- Even though I must have had at least 50 samples of food items that afternoon, I am still thinking about the pepper relish served atop the burgers from The Cos Cobber.  The make the relish themselves with fresh Italian peppers.  The peppers hover between sweet and spicy, providing the perfect compliment to the robust nature of the protein.  The patty itself was fine, but nothing special.  The pepper relish was what made it one of my favorite offerings of the evening. For more information, the website is  http://www.thecoscobber.com/The_Cos_Cobber/Home.html .



Graham Elliot and Me... another jacket signer!

3. Best Classic- I usually greeet cult food favorites with healthy skepticism.  It took a friend forcing me to get me to try Sprinkles Cupcakes (which I don't particularly enjoy), I've never set foot in an Olive Garden, and I walk right past in-N-out burger.  The line at Shake Shack spanned almost half the BBQ portion of the park, and I was willing to pass it by.  Fortunately, my companion pulled me into the queque.  "If you did this on a regular day you'd probably wait an hour... this is nothing," she argued.  I'm glad I waited!  The Shake Shack offers a great package: a well-cooked patty, a unique sauce, lettuce, and a perfectly toasted bun.  I certainly understand why people love it.  Honestly, the sauce was a bit heavy for me.  The first bite was delectable and cohesive, but I quickly became full.  I'm suppose I'm a burger purist: I like a just crisp bun, a tender patty, and a touch of ketchup.  But for people who want a good, unique burger, this is a great choice.  The crew was especially friendly, and made the experience fun despite the extended wait.  Check out the website and visit the Westport location: http://www.shakeshack.com/

Honorable mention to the other participants... I know I sampled at least 8 burgers!  It was incredibly enetertaining and all went to a good cause.  (I'm referring to the charity, although I suppose that could also be extended to my happy tummy!)

I hope to get more blog posts up in the next few days... I hope you keep checking for them and keep reading!!  I just enjoyed a beautiful meal at Colicchio and Sons that I can't wait to tell you about.  I tried more of their selections that I never got to try before.  Also, look for my contributions on CTBites.com !  It is an enxcellent food blog for people who are interested in the CT restaurant scene.


Top Chef's Cliff