135 Beford Street, Stamford, CT
203-674-5652
http://www.lolasstamford.com/index.php
Lola's Mexican Kitchen markets itself as "a first-class Mexican Restaurant combined with a vibrant bar scene" that tries to"capture the warmth and comfort of Mexico, in a contemporary setting." Based on this description, I expected a somewhat upscale, lounge-like experience, perhaps akin to nearby restaurants Bartaco or Barcelona. Instead, I found a space more suitable to an after-hours bar and club. There was dark wood, debris on the floor, and dim-colored red lighting. A strange hybrid of emo and hard rock thumped in the background. The bar was the clear focal point. Having gone there for dinner on a weeknight, I was a bit apprehensive about how the evening would unfold.
The drink list is lengthy, mostly consiting of versions of margaritas and mojitos. There are also numerous fruit-based cocktails. Each one contains several fruity spirits (about 5-6) in unusual, but delicious-looking, combinations. The tequila choices seem endless and are available as flights. The wine list is decent, offering standard restaurant choices like the El Coto Rioja. I ultimately chose the Rosa-Lita cocktail, a mix of graprefuit, elderflower, x-rated, and pomegranite spirits (shown below). It was very refreshing. The pomegranite taste emerged at the end of each sip- a perfect little kick.
It took a while before our server came back to take our food orders. As mentioned, the bar is the main fixture of Lola's, and the servers focused predominantly on that area. However, another server gave us some chips and salsa to munch on while we waited. (Note: It was a considerable wait time- we had devoured this snack way before we placed our orders.) The salsa was more of a tomato puree. I loved the thick texture, but I would have appreciated more spice.
The menu contains diverse options that can satisfy appetites of various sizes. There are soups, salads, and small plates for people looking for lighter fare. Sandwiches and salads cater to the lunch crowds. Those looking for a large, generous Mexican meal can order from House Specialities and Traditional Favorites. Their "taqueria" straddles the middle line. One can choose from a minimum of 3 tacos (priced individually, $3-4) and add a side of rice and beans for $4.
I'm always up for eating adventurously so a few choices from the taqueria called out to me. I noticed a "smoked lingua" taco on the menu before I went. A quick google search informed me that meant "tongue." I had to try it since I've never had tongue before. Beef cheeks: yes. Tongue: No. (Sidenote: I could not get the image of Antonia and Carla singing 'beef tongue, beef tongue' in Top Chef All Stars out of my head all night.) I also saw a ropa vieja: slow-cooked brisket with sweet plantains. I thought putting the plantains in the taco itself was an interesting idea so I went for it. We ordered the pork carnita to round out the protein selection on the plate. I added on the rice, beans, and ordered a side of plantains.
3 Tacos (Left) and fried plantains (right)
I thoroughly enjoyed the taco stuffings. Like Antonia and Carla, I can now sing the praises of "beef tongue;" the lingua was prepared to perfection. It was well-cooked, but not overly chewy, flavorful, but not overly seasoned. They placed pinapple in the taco to go with it. I enjoyed how the sweet pineapple complimented the rich protein choice. However, I would have put less pineapple in the taco itself. The ratio of pineapple to meat was high and sometimes I got a bite that was far more sweet than savory. The ropa viejo was the star of the plate. The brisket was tender and flavorful without being too spicy. The sweet plantain was presented in the perfect portion. It added a sweet touch and a smooth texture. One overall note: I wish they had used house-made tortillas, or at least crisped them up. These were store-bought, flour tortillas that had simply been filled before reaching the table. The insides were so delicious and the unappealing flour tortillas only detracted from them. A great tortilla, on the other hand, would have made these tacos worthy of any upscale restaurant.
The sides were fine. I enjoyed the black beans. Lola's prepares them simply: no added seasonings or sauces. I dislike beans that I can only describe as "gloopy"... these were definitly not "gloopy!" They were smooth and light. The plantains were pleasant, but not my favorites compared to other ones I have sampled. I prefer mine more fried; these still seemed very chewy, sweet, and banana-y. The yellow rice was completely generic. No seasonings, probably out of the box. I did not eat mine.
I have a policy of always looking at the dessert menu :). I never know if I want to order it, but if something grabs my eye I usually go for it. Something DEFINITELY grabbed my eye: DESSERT NACHOS!! Fried cinnamon-sugar "chips," chocolate/grand manier dipping sauce, caramel dipping sauce, and caramelized jalapenos. I would have tried it for the caramelized jalapenos alone. My curiosity was too peaked to turn back. And what I recieved was, in fact, dessert nachos!
The chips looked very similar to the ones that came at the beginning of the meal... but they were re-fried (or baked), dusted with sugar and cinnamon, and totally transformed so I forgave them. When I dipped one in the chocolate sauce, I may as well have died and gone to heaven. Confession: I could have done without the caramelized jalapenos. I am glad I tried them (for research purposes and background knowledge!) and I think they could be quite cool on the right dish. But with everything else going on on the plate, that intense spice kick was just a little much. I would go back to Lola's for the nachos.
We also ordered a flan. I tasted a bit of it. It came off as a generic flan. Pretty presentation, but not worth ordering in my opinion. I prefer authentic flans made from scratch.
Overall, I think Lola's has potential to become the "first-class Mexican restaurant" they want to be. Individual components are on point, like the taco stuffings. Clearly the kitchen knows what it is doing to prepare the meat that perfectly and come up with those stuffing combinations. On the other hand, the foundations of the meal are generic (probably package to table): plain rice, tortillas, salsas. I suspect that if Lola's placed more emphasis on the dining experience, less on the bar, and began making those components special, they would have food worthy of a gourmet restaurant.
Before wrapping this up, I would also like to express gratitude to the servers. I called earlier in the day and explained my mobility situation (yayyy hard cast and crutches!). The manager could not have been nicer; he promised to reserve a table with plenty of space for me to maneuver (and in front of the windows!) and assured me the restaurant was crutch-friendly. He was waiting for me when I arrived and proceeded to open the door, help me to my table, and make sure we were comfortable. He and the other servers were polite to us and the other diners throughout the meal.
So would I go to Lola's again? Sure, if you wanted to. I'd order some beef tongue. And nachos. Definitly the nachos....
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