Saturday, April 13, 2013

Cuisine Couture Kuwait: An Inside Look



After some consideration, I decided that my latest Cuisine Couture adventures should take the form of a more candid, personal blog rather than more formal reviews. My last post was more analytic; I took an observation, crafted a thesis, and came up with reasons to explain it. However, there is nothing analytic about the way this experience has unfolded! I took the job on a whim and have found myself on the other side of the world. It would be more fun for me- and more fun for you- if I honor that spontaneity and keep you updated on day to day occurences.

Admittedly, the restaurant is keeping me extremely busy! My usual day consists of a wake-up call around 10:30 so I can fit in a brief stint at the teeny hotel “gym.” The car picks us up for the restaurant between 12 and 1 pm. Then, it’s pretty much nonstop action. With the exception of Sundays, the equivalent to Monday in the US (first day of the workweek and school) the crowd converges right at lunchtime, roughly 2pm. It lasts steadily with a brief lull in the afternoon, which in Kuwait is between 6:30 and 8. At 8 dinner hits and doesn’t let up until 11pm. Our driver picks us up at 11 or 11:30pm and we’re back at the hotel around 12am. By the time I get ready for the next day, prepare for bed, and get caught up on my emails and Skyping, it’s about 2am. All things considered, I do not know how frequent my blog will be. However, I aspire to keep you posted at least once a week. I have not had any days off yet and may not for some time, but when I do that should give me more flexibility. (The restaurant is still in its opening stages and it is important that all of the managers be present each day in the weeks t come until we know it can function completely on its own.)

So what is Figs Kuwait all about? If you’ve been to the Figs in Boston, this Figs would probably take you by surprise. The décor stands in staunch contrast. While the Boston figs feels intimate, cozy, and snug, the Kuwait Figs in the Avenues mall proves large, sleek, and sexy. The restaurant name glows in purple neon lights against a backdrop of black textured walls. Inside round leather chairs surround dark wooden tables. The dim mood lighting is reminiscent of modern New York clubs. An “outdoor patio” overlooks the mall below. The formidable mall boasts large palm trees, dangling lights, and a format made to look like city streets.

The food mantains signature Todd English elements. The Kuwait location has the same types of offerings as the original: starters, pizzas, pastas, and mains. Many of the staples are present such as the Oliver’s pizza, Bronx Bomber, and Isabella’s. By name, many of the dishes overlap. At the same time, the cuisine diverges from the American plates in important ways. For one thing, Figs Kuwait has created several new dishes to cater to a Middle Eastern clientele like zaatar vinaigrette and a mezze platter. In addition, the Kuwait kitchen has to factor in limitations imposed by the country. Alchohol must be omitted entirely. It is not used in the cooking and the restaurant has an extensive list of “mocktails” in leiu of a beverage list. Pork cannot be included either. The famous “Fig and Prosciutto Pizza” has been replaced with the “Fig and Bresola,” another type of cured meat.

Most evident, however, is the difference in overall preparation and flavors. The Middle Eastern palate favors extremes: extreme creaminess, sweetness, and richness. Copious amounts of honey are added to agrodolces and sauces. Pastas are saturated in thick, heavy sauces. Also, meat almost always is prepared well done. I have seen numerous dishes that would have been considered a beautiful medium sent back to the kitchen as rare. I ordered a burger medium rare and the chef on duty almost had a heart attack. I would not want to pass judgment on another culture’s taste, but I will say that the difference has been a little bit of a shock to my system. I have become accustomed to a careful balance of flavors and this milieu seems to take the direct opposite approach.

I have an interesting role within the restaurant itself. There were two other Americans here when I arrived. They came as part of an “opening team” appointed by Todd English and scheduled to stay for a shorter time frame, about a month. I, on the other hand, have signed with the Middle Eastern restaurant group that partnered with Todd English to produce the franchise. I work closely with the Americans and share their resources for now, but I will stay on for months to come. The man whose position I filled, Guests Relations manager, already left and the American chef is leaving within the week. Then, I will be on my own!

I alluded to my title: Guest Relations Manager. This is a title they created for me and my exact duties are ambiguous, flexible, and evolving. My American counterpart first explained my job to me as the “American ambassador.” The company benefits from an American face promoting the restaurant, welcoming guests, and checking in on them to heighten their dining experiences. I have some mixed opinions about this in some respects. On the other hand, it puts me in the unique position to place myself in every part of the restaurant. I am on the floor all the time so I get to observe everything that goes on around me. I check in with the guests in the front, organize the servers on the floor, and communicate with the kitchen crew in the back. As a manager, I also have access to the upstairs office and get to see the restaurant logistical operations unfold. Since this is my first official restaurant gig, I am enjoying this vantage point. Had I been tasked with a more intense, specialized position I would not get to be everywhere at once.

My role gives me an opportunity for constant growth as well. The corporation knows that my goal is to learn as much as possible and challenge myself. The restaurant is still in its early stages, but as it grows I am gaining more responsibilities. For example, today I got organize and implement the entire waiting list. To an outsider it may seem like a meaningless feat. In reality, I was keeping track of a slew of things at once. I felt challenged. It was such a surge of adrenaline and the feeling of success w
when the hours of work were over proved exhilarating.

Another major perk is that I get to observe and learn from experienced, talented individuals around me. The American chef appreciates my culinary passions and has been trying to let me see as much as possible. He has taught me several important lessons like the importance of tasting everything. Even if you try a dish one day, you should check back on it a few days later to make sure the kitchen is still executing it correctly. And a taste doesn’t mean finishing it; a single bite as it comes off the line can make or break a guest’s experience. He also reminds me to “walk not run.” As passionate as I am, I need to respect the seasoned professionals around me. I can learn more from standing back and watching them than trying to jump in prematurely.

I have tried many items on the menu and will give you more specific culinary notes in subsequent entries. For now, that is a rundown on the world I have found myself in!

Go FIGure!

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