Dining by Design: Top Chef Hurricane Sandy Benefit Dinner

Dale Talde and Kevin Sbraga

New York City's culinary landscape is a reflection of the city itself: diverse and dynamic.  The food encompasses everything from humble to gourmet, traditional to innovative.  The personalities behind the food range from the unknown to some of the most revered figures in the industry.  Despite the type of food, level of acclaim, or, dare I say, size of the ego, all of the people within New York's culinary community seem to share one thing: a genuine, profound allegiance to the city.  Many have spent their careers here, and have deep affection for the place in which they got their start.

When Hurricane Sandy decimated the east coast, the culinary world burst forth with an outpouring of support.  Within hours, chefs were uniting to encourage New Yorkers to return to downtown restaurants.  They flooded twitter and facebook with information about making donations.  Others, like Chef Angelo Sosa of Anejo Taquileria, used their own resources to intitiate fundraisers to aid those affected by the storm.

On Monday November 5, 2012, Top Chef alumni Angelo Sosa, Kevin Sbraga, Dale Talde, and Jennifer Carroll banded together to host a Hurricane Sandy Relief Dinner at Anejo.  Sosa began conceiving the idea on Friday night and began using social media to see if anyone in the area would be able to help him.  Within the next few hours, the other three chefs replied and came on board.  Jen Carroll had been scheduled to cook at Top Chef Kitchen that weekend, but due to storm damage it had been closed.  As a result, she was in the vicinity and eager to support the cause.  Talde, of Talde in Brooklyn, came up to Hell's Kitchen to assist.  Angelo found businesses to donate the food and spirits.  As a result, 100% of proceeds went directly to the Red Cross.

I was fortunate to see one of Angelo's preliminary tweets that contained nothing but a reference to a possible benefit and the promise of "details to come."  I quickly made a reservation and waited for a plan to emerge.  I am a long time Top Chef fan, but, more importantly, I wanted to participate in such a worthy cause.  I live in Connecticut and witnessed the horrible effects of the storm in my home state.  I also frequent New York; it's my escape and my playground.  The photographs of some of my favorite spots underwater horrified me, and listening to the firsthand accounts made me appreciate just how hard the storm hit certain areas.

Grayson Schmitz

The dinner was a Top Chef challenge come to life.  I could almost hear Padma's voice saying, "Chefs, you have 3 days to plan and execute a gourmet 4 course benefit dinner.  Your ingredients are on their way, and you will not know exactly what you have until you arrive at the restaurant.  Your time starts... now!"  Sosa revealed that they stayed up "endless hours" to create the event.

The chefs decided on two seatings: one at 6pm and one at 8pm.  I had the chance to attend the first seating.  The meal included 4 courses, one prepared by each of the chefs, and a cocktail pairing with each.  As an added bonus, Grayson Schmitz, Season 9 Top Chef contestant, made a surprise last minute appearance to help out in the kitchen.

As expected, the food was incredible!  Angelo kicked off the evening with a first course of "baby carrots with spiced white chocolate and mole."  Three long thin baby carrots arrived on plates over a colorful swirl of white and orange sauce.  I couldn't help but chuckle to myself as the hostess went from table to table, informing less experienced diners that the stems, were in fact, meant to be eaten.  The appetizer had a complex, yet fun, flavor profile.  It began softly spicy; I thought I detected ginger.  It then grew slightly sweet as my fork picked up the white chocolate.  The mole packed a great, quick punch of heat at the very end.


Angelo's baby carrots

Next, Jennifer Carroll presented Ora King Salmon with potatoes, kabocha squash, and warm squid ink vinaigrette.  What a luscious course!  The perfectly cooked salmon melted in my mouth and the kabocha squash had sweet, earthy notes.  The two adorable potatoes resembled a gourmet version of tater tots.  My favorite item on the plate was, by far, the warm squid ink vinaigrette.  I have never had it before, and was excited to see such an exotic offering.  At the risk of sounding like a pervert, I'm going to describe it as evocative and sultry.  It had depth and intensity reminscent of black truffles.  At the same time, the vinaigrette form ensured that it did not overwhelm the fish.  I enjoyed the course so much that I admit to ordering a second one before the dessert course :).

Jen Carroll's King Salmon

One of the highlights of the evening was the time I got to spend talking with Jen Carroll.  I have admired her, specifically, since her first appearance on Top Chef.  As a female food enthusiast, I have respected her abounding talent and command in what some consider a male-dominated world.  Although she is extremely skilled and a force in the kitchen, she proved down-to-earth and gregarious in person.  Up until that evening, I thought I might be the only person with a favorite... and second favorite... type of squash.  Both of us opt for the kabocha, and tossed around our favorite ways to use them.  She seemed amused- and appreciative- of the dorky ways I have gone about learning about cooking.  I never thought such a culinary icon would be so relatable, but she was!

The final two courses were the richest of the evening.  Kevin Sbraga served a crispy chicken thigh with brussels sprouts, polenta, and a truffle condiment.  A good-sized thigh with browned skin sat atop a bed of creamy polenta.  I detected an element of heat and Kevin confirmed that he used Thai chilis in the dish.  He also interspersed rosemary throughout.  For dessert, Dale served a chocolate pudding with pomelo and hazelnuts.  It was thick and almost mousse-like in consistency.  The crunch of the hazelnuts and subtle tang of the pomelo made it especially unique.

The cocktails were entertaining additions to the evening.  They complimented the dishes in some ways, but mostly they were delicious entities in and of themselves.  I am still dreaming of the Mendoza, a mix of Herradura Silver, Passion Fruit, Grenadine, and Cava, shaken.  I was informed that the drink appears on their regular menu, so you can stop in anytime and try one for yourself (which you should!!)  I also have a fond memory of the Ponche Vida, which catered to the autumn season with a touch of Oaxacan Spiced Pumpkin.  Kudos to Josh Wortman, Anejo's mixologist!

As the hour latened (and the cocktails flowed!), the evening took on the vibe of an afterparty.  Everyone was out of their seats visiting enthusiastically with the other attendees and the chefs themselves.


Men Who Dine

"This must be what it's like to be backstage at a rock concert," I remarked to my companion.  After all, these five people are my rock stars... I admire their talent and think what they do is so incredibly cool.  And here they all were: laughing, talking food, and enjoying the night with us.  Moreover, the majority of the other attendees were food enthusiasts and we found ourselves mingling with each other.  (I even got the chance to meet the Men Who Dine!)  I was grateful that we were able to come together and find some rays of light in a dark situation.

I left Anejo completely inspired.  On the one hand, I felt even more compelled to cook; the love of food was completely infectious.  Furthermore, I left with a new appreciation for our capacity to come together in the face of adversity.  I am so thankful to Sosa and the chefs for uniting so quickly and donating their time and resources.  The night raised over $10,000 for the American Red Cross!

Thank you to Angelo, Jen, Kevin, Dale, Grayson, and everyone who made the evening possible.

Dining by Design: Sandy Sends Me to Barcelona... Stamford, that is!

As Hurricane Sandy pummeled the east coast on Tuesday, Barcelona Wine Bar tweeted, "CT area: By noon today we hope to have all Barcelonas open. We'll have working bathrooms, outlets available & free WiFi."  They continued, "Feel free to come & use them. No purchase required; in fact, feel free to bring in your own food. Wishing all a safe/speedy recovery."  I have always loved Barcelona Stamford for its hospitality and personable crew as well as its delicious food and wine.  Still, the speed with which they responded and the fact that they thought of the safety of their diners first really gave me a newfound appreciation for the restaurants.  They stood by their tweets, too.  The hurricane left much of the area (including me!) without power and water for several days.  As a result, Barcelona Stamford turned into a haven.  Professionals conducted business over plugged in computers, mothers took young children into the bathrooms, and cell phones flowed from the outlets.  Barcelona welcomed everyone with open arms.

On Wednesday when we still had no power, I declared to my family that I wanted to go out.  As much as I love grilling, I wanted a break.  Plus, it was Halloween!!  I'd fallen in love with a cupcake costume and after a week of back-and-forth I'd bought it.  (For me, a store costume is a splurge... unecessary, not that practical, but fun!)  I was determined to wear it out.  I remembered Barcelona's tweets and knew they were open.  My parents enjoy Barcelona so I didn't have to present any other options or do much convincing after I mentioned that.

We sat at one of my favorite spots in the restaurant; the leather booths in the bar area.  The bar itself is my favorite for a night out or tapas and drinks with friends.  I want to be a part of the scene :).  The bar allows for interaction with the bartenders, a behind the scenes view of the drinks, a glimpse into the kitchen, and a chance to chat with the people around you.  Also, I believe that it makes for a more fun, direct experience with the company you go with.  Sitting at the bar forces you to block out other distractions and really focus on your friend.  With family though, the bar becomes less practical.  The booth is the perfect solution; it is just a few feet to the side of the bar and people are coming and going all the time.  The dorky food enthusiast in me coveted the direct view of the kitchen.  And we still had table space and an area to ourselves.

The setting around us was a beautiful juxtaposition of sophisticated wine bar and safe haven for those in need.  The dichotomies that I saw captured the spirit of compassion that's been resonating.  Many of the electricity seekers had left by dinner time, but a few remained.  In front of the luxerious, glass wall of wine, two cell phones extended from the outlet.  The owners perched on benches nearby, occasionally checking their phones while nibbling on some food.  Nestled between the usual bar patrons was a woman in sweats, frantically trying to get a loved one on the phone.  Waiters and waitresses moved back and forth to politely serve diners who were clearly there for a gourmet evening out.  At the same time, I could see a quiet businessman, taking the chance to plug in his computer, hard at work.

The restaurant boasted some wonderful, creative specials that evening.  I ordered a baby octopus tapa from them.  My mother selected the chorizo with sweet and sour figs and we agreed to split the hangar steak.  My father went all in with a plato principale, an entree sized dish.  He got the Churrasco, a skirt steak with chimichurri and sweet potato fries.

The octopus and Laurona

The octopus was possibly the single greatest seafood creation I have ever had.  I'm being totally honest.  If I make a statement like that, I have gone through careful consideration: recounting past memorable bites, factoring in creativity, and reflecting on the situations.  (And to better illustrate my honesy, I will admit that I say "possibly" because I still think about a bass dish that I had at the original Atlantic Grill about 7 years ago.  However, I have a hard time weighing it against the octopus because 1- it was really the broth that made the dish exceptional, so I wonder if that counts as a "dish" and 2- it was a while ago and the memory isn't super salient.)  Anyway, back to the octopus... possibly the single greatest seafood creation I have ever had!!  It was slowly braised with beans and cooking liquids, so that all of the sea flavors from the octopus infused with the rest of the ingredients.  It had a touch of smoke and proved quite savory for a seafood dish.  It came served in a small bowl, and took the form of a cross between a stew and a soup.  I loved it and am still thinking about it.  (Call me in 7 years to find out if I still am; maybe then I can finally make my ultimate decision for the aforementioned conundrum....)

The chorizo and fig tapa is a regular on the menu, as is the hangar steak.  Both are exceptional and popular choices at the restaurant.  I had never seen my dad's Churrasco, though.  The steak was cooked perfectly and came tender, slightly crispy on the outside, and spiced.  The true all star on the plate though was the sweet potatoes.  The outside skin had been cooked to a thin, crispy, smokey, flake.  Yet somehow, the inside flesh remained totally soft and sweet.  As a cook and fan of sweet potatoes, I find that this is a hard equilibriums to achieve.  I speculated that they were done a la plancha, but my server informed me that they had been quickly and carefully fried.  They were so delicious that I ordered a small side of them to go along with the tapas- and to replace the ones I'd stolen from my father!


The sweet potatoes as a side

At Barcelona, the wine is just as exciting as the food!  I ordered the Laurona, which I fell in love with while writing a recent article on Barcelona's wine for CTBites: http://www.ctbites.com/home/2012/10/9/gretchen-thomas-of-barcelona-restaurant-group-talks-wine.html .  It is smooth red wine produced in smaller quanitities.  It consists of Garnacha and Carinena from Montsant.

Once the dinner courses ended, I tried a dessert wine, something I don't usually do.  After that incredible glass though, I'm going to do it more frequently!  I got a Tannat from Uruguay, the Alcyone from Vinedo de los Vientos.  One reason, I've steered clear of dessert wines is because I think of them as overly sweet and syrupy.  Not the Alcoyne.  It is slightly thicker than a typical wine since it is a dessert wine, but in a totally smooth manner.  The flavor is incredible as well.  It has the element of sweetness that I craved post-dinner, but it's not overwhelming at all.  The sweet notes balance with lovely nuttiness.

And, it's from Uruguay.  I enjoy wines from this region; they tend to be lesser known, but artfully created.  Not all restaurants incorporate them, let alone a dessert version.  Fortunately, Gretchen is a wine mastermind and has had this offering on the list for many years.  This is a truly special glass and I really encourage all of you to try it.

I was so amazed by my meal on Wednesday night that I called up a friend and asked if she wanted to go back on Saturday.  She heard Barcelona and was immediatly on board, and we figured it was a good choice considering power is still spotty and restaurants have been hovering in and out of operation.

By Saturday, the restaurant scene had transformed.  It was still a refuge from Hurricane Sandy, but in a wine flowing, night out, reconnect with friends and family way!  (Note: Barcelona still offered its amenitities between 12 and 5.)  The restaurant was more packed than I had ever seen it; even on a Saturday night.  My friend and I sat at the bar, which got at least 5 deep as the night went on.  Energy radiated and bounced off the walls.  Everyone had come out of hibernation and was ready for some fun!

I ordered the Mencia from Gretchen's Buzz, another wine mentioned in my article.  Later, I had a glass of Beaujolais.  It was recommended, and I was hesitant at first; images of Neveau flashed before my eyes.  I was assured it was totally different though, and I tried it.  It was a great choice and something I would certainly order again.  It was robust and earth, but smooth.  The abrasive tannins I associate with Beajoulais like the Neveau had completely mellowed.

The food, again, was incredible.  Like on Wednesday, the chefs offered a few exciting specials along with the regular menu.  I ordered a sucking pig charcuteria (I'm butchering the spelling, I'm sure).  It came cooked, like slices of bacon, with thin fresh slices of Macoun apples and baby lettuce.  I think I detected pimenton.  Whatever the spices were was a perfect combination.  The dish was admittedly rich, but it was a tapa portion and every bite was incredible.


The sucking pig with macoun apples and mache

Another special left me in awe: the lemon cured mackerel with fennel.  I love mackerel, a type of naturally rich, smoky fish.  The tapa resembled pasta when it came out.  The slices of mackeral and fennel looked like noodles and the suffusing pimenton could have been mistaken for marinera sauce.  The tapa was utterly harmonious.  The peppery pop from the fennel blended with the smoke of the mackeral and the kick of the pimenton.  I think this was my favorite of the evening, especially with the credit awarded for the creative presentation!

Mackerel "pasta"

We also tried the crispy brussels sprouts, sunchoke chips, and braised short ribs.  The brussels sprouts were perfectly crisped.  The skin seemed to flake off in my mouth in a flavorful burst.  I also discovered that the crispy brussels sprouts skin went amazing with the mackerel.  I think that the smoke from each enhanced on another.  I even crumbled a little bit of it on a bite of the mackerel with great results.  The sunchoke chips were good, and came with the same truffle aioli on the hangar steak.  The braised short ribs were phenomenol.  They came topped with Barcelona's play on quimchi, one of my favorite meal components.  Quimchi is a like a cabbage braised in spices, usually Korean or Asian in nature.  The short ribs were so tender that I barely needed to touch them with my fork to make them pull apart.  They just seemed to melted.  They were delectable, rich, and savory.  I certainly recommend them, but know that they are a heavier choice compared to other tapas.


Brussels (left) and sunchoke chips

Short rib pot with quimchi
(Dark and blurry photo: I was trying to be discreet, sorry!)

When dessert came, the Alcyone was out!  The delivery vehicle was stuck in the hurricane... and I wonder if I shot myself in the foot by tweeting and telling all my friends to get down to Barcelona for a glass ASAP as soon as I got home Wednesday, haha.  In any event, that gave me the chance to try the Muscatel dessert flight.  For $12 and 3 tastes, it is a remarkable value.  I also give Barcelona kudos for getting such range in the flight: the first was sparkling, the second was of a mead color, and the third was much lighter.  They all had a different profile.  Of the three, the last was my favorite.  I tried to look it up online, but could not find it on the wine list.  I know that it had 2 initials, starting with a J, as the first word (JV?) and a name starting with an F for the second word.  If anyone knows what it is, please let me know!

I have been to Barcelona Stamford on so many occassions, but each time I have a completely different experience.  They are so skilled, yet incredibly amiable.  They constantly keep me on my toes with eclectic food specials, changing wines, and a continously evolving ambiance.

Cooking Creations: Sandy's Spiced Pumpkin Soup 2 Ways

Day 1: Sandy's Spiced Pumpkin Soup

After lamenting the omipresence of the pumpkin a couple of posts ago, I walked out of the grocery store toting 3 sugar pumpkins.  I could blame my hypocrisy on the somewhat limited post-hurricane produce selection.  But that wouldn't be totally honest.  I admit it; I was just really in the mood for some pumpkin soup.  I figured I could go back on my rant for one meal.  After all, politicians flip flop all the time.  And in order to keep my pride somewhat in tact, I would present my soup with some fresh twists so that I wouldn't be one of the multitude in the pumpkin trance.

I started by researching a ton of pumpkin soup recipes.  I wound up drawing from the best parts of my top 5 and then adding my own touches to make a final product.  One version of pumpkin soup that caught my eye was a "spiked pumpkin soup."  Maple syrup, cider, and bourbon gave it a sweeter profile.  Those ingredients sounded great and I decided to incorporate them.  However, I really wanted a spicy profile as well.  I had a Trealeaven Gewurztraminer in the refrigerator, and I wanted the dish to match the incredible spice notes in the wine.  I stumbled across a soup that used a Moroccan Spice blend called Ras el Hanout.  I loved the majority of the spices I saw and was excited to channel the Middle Eastern Studies major side of myself in my cooking.  However, the blend called for curry and saffron.  There are only 3 foods I don't like: coconut, curry, and saffron.  I love squid.  Octopus.  Crispy pork ear.  Beef cheeks.  Beef tongue.  But I hate those 3 simple ingredients.  Go figure.  So I altered the blend slightly to suit my palette.

Personal touches included the addition of bacon.  My father, in particular, always insists on some type of meat in a dish if it is to constitute "dinner."  Although I disagree personally, I try to keep this in mind when cooking for my family.  I thought crumbled bacon as a garnish would add flavor.  I realized I could use some of the pan liquid to impart some smoky richness as well.

In addition, I challenged myself to use every part of actual pumpkins.  Most recipes called for canned pumpkin.  I always prefer freshness, especially when the gourd is in season, so I opted to use as much actual pumpkin flesh as I could render.  I also chose to pre-roast it before pureeing it.  Furthermore, I wanted to incorporate the seeds and accomplished that by roasting them and using them as a garnish and side.  Finally, and best of all, I served the soup in the remaining pumpkin shells!  After hollowing them out, I sliced them in half and made "bowls."

With a very lose plan in place, I began my roasting and created a mise en place (or my messy version of one, with things crammed in every nook and cranny of my teeny kitchen.)  I added the pumpkin, canned pumpkin (necessary since the soup needs more flesh than what I could get from the gourds), bourbon, maple syrup, apple cider, and chicken broth until I got a consistency and flavor that I enjoyed.  I'm not really sure what the actual quantities were. I estimated what I did retrospectively and outlined it in the "recipe" below:

Ingredients
3 sugar pumpkins

• Scoop out and roast the seeds
• Cut out as much as the flesh as possible preserving the outer shell.  Roast it in the oven.
• Cut the hollowed pumpkins in half so that you have 3 pumpkin “bowls” to serve the soup in

4 slices bacon
1 cup chopped shallot (My choice: I like this over onion, but onion works too.)
2 garlic cloves, minced
Spice blend
Apple cider (1 cup?)
Bourbon (1/2 cup?)
Maple syrup (1/2 cup?)
Canned pumpkin- Depending on how much you need to add
Chicken broth (2 cans?)
Salt & Pepper

Preparation

Heat oven to 350.  Roast the pumpkin on a baking sheet with cooking spray until tender and slightly brown.  (20-30 minutes?)  Remove.

Cook the bacon in a Dutch oven, per package instructions.  Crumble/dice the bacon and set it aside.  Reserve some of the cooking liquid in the pan.

Without washing the Dutch oven, adjust it to medium-high heat. Coat pan with cooking spray. Add shallot, spices, and garlic cloves; sauté until lightly browned. Stir in cider, bourbon, syrup, pumpkin, and broth; bring to a boil. (Quantities are dependent on your preferences.  Add in the ratios that give it the taste and thickness that you want.  You may have to add as the soup simmers.)  Reduce heat, and simmer 10 minutes.

Process the pumpkin mixture in a blender until smooth. Return to pan. Cook until heated, stirring frequently.

Ladle soup into the pumpkins.  Garnish with bacon and pumpkin seeds if desired.  Sprinkle with extra spice, if desired.

Spice Blend:
I combined the following in a ratio that I liked.  Play around with these- and incorporate the saffron and curry that I omitted!!
Salt
Pepper
Cumin
Ginger
Cinnamon
Allspice
Ground Cloves
Ground Coriander
Cayenne

Day 2: Tom Colicchio's Bread Pudding Topped Sweet Potatoes... Pumpkin Style!!
The soup had all of the elementst that I strove for, and I was pleased that my endeavor worked out.  (Not all do... haha)  Even though we all had seconds, there were still leftovers.  I figured we could have another night of pumpkin soup... until I saw Tom Colicchio's segment on the Rachel Ray show. 

Side note: To be clear, I am not in the habit of watching the Rachel Ray show.  Or reading Rachel Ray cookbooks.  I already admitted hypocrisy once in this entry, and I want you to know that I am not going back on my previous convictions again.  I watched Rachel Ray because 1) Wendy Williams was on commercial break and 2) I think highly of Tom Colicchio and always learn some cool things when I see him cook on TV.

Tom presented a recipe called "Bread Pudding Topped Sweet Potatoes."  The idea is to reinvent the delicious, sweet bread pudding in a savory form.  Basically, the dish is like a casserole with a layer of sweet potato puree, bread pudding (bread cubes and custard), and veggies.  I figured that my leftover soup was thick enough that it could make for a "puree."  Pumpkins could make for a great sweet potato substitution- especially with the sweet and spicy aspects I added to my soup.

I made a few changes to his recipe for my version.  As mentioned, I substituted my pumpkin soup for the sweet potato puree.  I also omitted the butter and cream due to my dairy issues.  The dish still proved rich and creamy because of the egg.  I also used the veggies I had on hand instead of the ones called for, which were shallots, celery, and carrots.  I used cranberries instead of raisins as well.  Portions had to be adjusted and I had to make it in a smaller bread pan to account for the smaller amount of soup I had left.

Cranberries, veggies, bread, and egg

The original recipe can be seen here: http://www.rachaelrayshow.com/food/recipes/tom-colicchios-bread-pudding-topped-sweet-potatoes/



Into the oven...

...out of the oven, golden brown!

It turned out amazing!!  The recipe also served as a reminder of the power of the egg.  I have gotten pretty good at figuring out how to omit dairy and still make components with texture, thickness, and flavor, but up until this point I have not really turned to the egg; I use ingredients like syrup, stocks, and vinegars.  I forgot that egg can impart creaminess and plan to use it more!  I will need to do some more research about cooking times and safety though.  That can be one of my new projects if the hurricane keeps me homebound.

Served up on the plate

And for dessert...
Inspired by leftover pumpkin seeds and my recent trip to Colicchio and Sons, I made my own pepita brittle!  The process itself consists of caramelizing sugar and water in a pan, adding a spot of butter, and mixing in whatever ingredients (pepitas, spices, etc) strike your fancy!  You then lay it out in a thin layer on parchment paper to solidify.

Pepita brittle drying

Pepita brittle!

And Days 3, 4, and 5...
I have so much to write about!  Barcelona, a favorite of mine, is one of the restaurants that's had power throughout this ordeal.  I can't wait to tell you about my discoveries.  I'll also be helping our area and supporting the Top Chef alumni who are holding a benefit dinner for hurricane sandy recover Monday evening.  I'll let you know what they created :).

Cooking Creations: Grilling with Sandy

"It is neither good nor bad, but thinking makes it so," wrote William Shakespeare.  Well, I don't know about that.  Hurricane Sandy was unequivocally "bad."  My heart goes out to all of the people who lost their homes, property, and are still struggling.  However, I do think that it is possible to find pockets of joy in even the most horrific situations.  The following blogpost is not to make light of a dark situation.  Rather, it is to find light in a dark situation.

Dear Top Chef Producers,
I have a great idea for an upcoming elimination challenge!  Contestants will be forced to create a delicious dinner without the use of power.  No ovens.  No microwaves.  No appliances.  And no light to see with!  As for ingredients, they will be limited to small quanitities of whatever protein and vegetables are still fresh in a distant grocery store.  They will also have a small amounts of non-perishable and unrefrigerated items like cooking oil and vinegars.  Oh, and as an added bonus, the water supply is compromised so any food washing must be done with bottled water and paper towels.  This might seem ridiculous, but I assure you, it can be done!  And it actually can be a lot of fun....

Hurricane Sandy uprooted me from my apartment and back to my childhood home with my parents.  I moved relatively recently, and it's been a long time since I've cooked up a meal for the three of us and we sat down together at the table.  There was a time when I did that every evening, and that's probably the thing I miss most since venturing out on my own.  As devastating as Sandy was, it gave us an opportunity to resurrect this family tradition.  Well, sort of.  This time had to do it without power or a steady food supply.

I'm obsessed with grilling, so I figured I could do my cooking on our little charcoal Webber.  A few phone calls revealed that a grocery market on the other side of town had mantained power and still had some groceries to sell.  I drove past downed trees, wires, and took a few detours to see what I could find.  I wound up with just over a pound of chicken breasts, 3 beefsteak tomatoes, 2 green zucchinis, and fresh basil.  There were other choices available, but that was the combination that spoke to me.  I knew that I couldn't buy much because I couldn't refrigerate anything, but I also wanted a few items that would fit nicely together.

As soon as I saw my produce selections, I thought, "Deconstructed ratatouille!"  I blame Mike Isabella and Brian Voltagio for the "deconstruction" component.  Moments before the power went down, my Dad and I had been watching the past episode of Top Chef where they win with a deconstructed Bernaise Sauce.  As for the ratatoille, I guess the dish pretty much originated from times like this.  The humble, "peasant" dish came from people having to make deliciousness from what they had.

The view from the deck... and the fence that fell over

I decided to make my version of ratatouille on skewers that I could then roast on the grill.  I soaked the basil leaves, cut the tomatoes into wedges, and cut the zucchini into slices.  I marinated the vegetables in a large ziploc bag with equal parts balsamic vinegar and red wine (2 tbsp of each).  Once they marinated for about a half hour, I threaded a wedge, a slice, and whole leaf on the skewer, repeating until the stick was full. I prepared the chicken relatively simply.  I sprinkled it with lemon zest, pepper, salt, and garlic powder.  I then marinated in it in a touch of balsamic and red wine.  The lemon zest was meant to enhance some of the citrus notes I smelled in the wine.

I did all of that in the dark. There was a bit of light coming in from outside and I had fashioned my small flashlight in a way that provided a small stream of light, though.

Side note: I should mention that we don't have many oils/vinegars here any more. My parents are in the process of moving, so they've been throwing out kitchen items. And I'll be honest... I took most of our ingredients (spices, vinegars, etc) to my own apartment. They were mine, after all; I do the cooking :).  Fortunately, the Balsamic vinegar was on hand and as soon as the storm reports started coming in I made sure there was plenty of red wine in the house!

The grilling itself was more difficult than expected due to the lack of light.  Note to self: should this happen again, I should probably start grilling before 6pm and before the sun sets for the night!!  Fortunately, my mom located a larger flashlight that she strategically shone on me as I worked.  Also, everything takes longer to cook when it's cold and windy.  Should you ever attempt this, expect your chicken to go about 10 minutes a side rather than 5-6.

It all turned out delicious though!!  The chicken reminded us all of steak; very moist and tender.  I don't like the local Grade A for much, but I will say that their store brand chicken breast always delivers on the grill.  I'll also take a little credit for it, though.  As I've mentioned before, I'm pretty sure I have chicken on the grill ESP.  Cooking time always vary, but for some reason I can put it on the grill, walk away, start doing other things (in this case reading the paper), and then suddenly look up and decide like I feel it's ready.  And that sense has never been wrong.  This doesn't work for anything else... just chicken breast, just on the grill.  Weird.  And the deconstructed ratatouille was fun too!  We all enjoyed the whole basil leaves.  Since they'd been skewered whole, they roasted up nicely.  On the other hand, they still broke apart or were cut apart as we ate through the dish.

Alright, Top Cheftestants, your challenge starts... NOW!

Dining By Design: Colicchio & Sons (Again- but new and tasty as always!)

In a recent article for New York Magazine, Felix Salmon documented "pumpkin's rise to baconlike ubiquity."  (Side note: I would have though he would have noted its rise to salmon-like ubiquity.  Hehe.  If you know me, I'm allowed to make last name jokes for good reason....)  While I love fall and all of its amazing produce, pumpkin included, I have to agree with him.  Pumpkin seems everywhere... and overdone.  Burger King Japan offers the Pumpkin Burger, Dunkin Donuts has the pumpkin mocha, and every bistro serves up a version of pumpkin soup.  Even the most fervent pumpkin lovers are getting tired by this overcommercialization of the gourd.  However, I was reinvigorated by a recent dinner to one of my favorite restaurants in New York City, Colicchio & Sons.  The restaurant's pastry chef, Steven Collucci, delivered a delicious pepita brittle, proving that the pumpkin can be reimagined and reincarnated.

"Pepitas" are Mexican pumpkin seeds.  The research I've dug up has said there's no difference between the two... although if you have more specific information, I'd be interested to hear it!  The brittle is sweet and crisp like a traditional brittle, but actual small pumpkin seeds are baked into it. The result is a component that is not overtly pumpkin.  Instead of that sweet tang found in so many commercial pumpkin "treats," the earthy, toasted essence of the gourd comes through with each crunch.  It is subtle, elegant, and tastey.  The brittle is intended as an addition; it comes as a part of the panna cotta dessert.  Personally though, I would put it on everything or eat it plain!

In addition to saving the pumpkin, Colicchio & Sons also breathed new life into the autumn soup!  I once more want to state my love of fall produce.  However, I have grown tired by the influx of squash, pumpkin, and "fall harvest" soups on shelves and in restaurants.  Popularity inevitably leads to mass production which leads to a descrease in quality.  I'd lost hope.  Until my server offered me that night's special: a parsnip soup with a truffle vinaigrette.  Ummm... yes!  Parsnips!!  What a welcome change amidst the squash ambush!!  It seems so simple- a root vegetable, so why not use it for a change- but I'd never encountered it before.  And truffle vinaigrette?  Yes!  What a luxerious addition to a humble soup.  The dish was as incredible as I imagined.  It was the perfect texture.  It was not overwhelmingly thick or filling, which is a fear of mine when I order a soup as an appetizer.  It was tasty and satisfying while still leaving room for the subsequent courses.

My other conquests that evening included the beef tartare with smoked egg vinaigrette.  It's so hard for me to say I have a "favorite" at Colicchio & Sons.  Everything is so good and they always seem to add something new to the menu that I have to try.  However, if I had to pick, this would be it.  To my recollection, the is the only dish I have ordered more than once- over three times, in fact.  As a rule of thumb, I always try to order something new so I experience everything.  I only get things more than once if it's exceptional.  The smoked egg vinaigrette makes the dish.  The smokiness of the vinaigrette wafts through each bite.  Furthermore, I got to try the PEI mussels.  What a beautiful dish!  Fresh roasted tomatoes and lemongrass broth make it extremely elegant and flavorful.  The ratio is such that those components enhance the mussels rather than mask them. 

The Remi that I blogged so enthusiastically about a few months ago is sadly no longer available.  However, I did enjoy the Cinsault-Carignon Hochar Chateau Musar 2007 from Bekaa Valley Lebanon.  It is a red wine; deeper than a Pinot but lighter than a rich Cab.  I have admired Lebanese wines for several years, but they are not frequently added to wine lists, especially by the glass.  I was pleased to see this as an option, and it shows that Colicchio & Sons is willing to take risks when it comes to the list if the wine is of high quality.

The time in the restaurant is always a wonderful experience.  The setting is perfect; where else can you find a roaring fireplace on a crisp fall evening?  The entire crew you feel welcome from beginning to end.  Thank you for another amazing dinner!

Dining by Design: Greenwich Food & Wine Festival

Ace of Cakes, Duff Goldman, and me at Greenwich Food & Wine

 Time flies when you're having fun... and when you're just plain busy!!  Between starting a full-time job, moving, and contributing to another established online food blog, I've been negligent in creating new posts.  Fortunately, that busy-ness has also included fun!  Food fun!  My writing for CTBites took me to Barcelona Wine Bar, where I got to be inspired by wine manager Gretchen Thomas: http://www.ctbites.com/home/2012/10/9/gretchen-thomas-of-barcelona-restaurant-group-talks-wine.html .  That same weekend, I won a ticket to the Greenwich, Connecticut Food and Wine Festival.

The festival spanned from Thursday October 4 to Saturday October 6.  It celebrated the vibrant culinary scenes of both Fairfield and Westchester County.  Proceeds went to an excellent cause: The Hole in the Wall Gang Camp, founded by Paul Newman to help families struggling with serious illnesses.  There were specialized events, including Thursday Night's Wine Evening and Friday Night's Tasting Gala.  On Saturday, guests could experience the festival at large.  A "culinary village" boasted food, wine, and spirits from over 90 vendors while celebrity book signings and demonstrations unfolded in tents arond the park.  The afternoon culminated in an epic Burger Battle in which local restaurants tried to serve up the best patty to a panel of celebrity judges.  Heavyweights such as Ted Allen, Graham Elliot, and Duff Goldman were all on hand to sample the entries and share opinions with the crowd.


Ted Allen signs my coveted chef's jacket... it's getting full!

Festival participants had the chance to sample the burgers over the course of the evening.  Each entrant had a booth or a tent that distributed smaller versions of the patties the chefs had the chance to indulge in.  (Although I admit I did get to eat a full-sized, masterfully created burger when Duff slipped me a barely touched burger complete with foie gras!)  I made a point to wear my big girl pants and try at least a taste of all of the burgers available for posterity (OK, and for my own enjoyment, too.)  I know a good burger!!  Below are my winners and findings:

1. Best Burger Patty- In my opinion, the most important part of the burger is the meat itself.  It's got to be the perfect cut of meat... substantial in your mouth, yet tender in texture.  It must also be perfectly cooked:pink in the center and melt-in-your-mouth.  In terms of the patty, the Ginger Man swept me off my feet.  This humble pub outshone the competition with its succulent, moist, tender meat and perfectly toasted bun.  The burger was made to stand alone.  Unlike other vendors who added chutneys and exotic toppings, the Gingerman put out a simple spread of ketchups and mustards.  It was perfection!  For more information on the Gingerman and its locations in Norwalk and Greenwich, visit http://www.gingermannorwalk.com/

2. Best Topping/Addition- Even though I must have had at least 50 samples of food items that afternoon, I am still thinking about the pepper relish served atop the burgers from The Cos Cobber.  The make the relish themselves with fresh Italian peppers.  The peppers hover between sweet and spicy, providing the perfect compliment to the robust nature of the protein.  The patty itself was fine, but nothing special.  The pepper relish was what made it one of my favorite offerings of the evening. For more information, the website is  http://www.thecoscobber.com/The_Cos_Cobber/Home.html .



Graham Elliot and Me... another jacket signer!

3. Best Classic- I usually greeet cult food favorites with healthy skepticism.  It took a friend forcing me to get me to try Sprinkles Cupcakes (which I don't particularly enjoy), I've never set foot in an Olive Garden, and I walk right past in-N-out burger.  The line at Shake Shack spanned almost half the BBQ portion of the park, and I was willing to pass it by.  Fortunately, my companion pulled me into the queque.  "If you did this on a regular day you'd probably wait an hour... this is nothing," she argued.  I'm glad I waited!  The Shake Shack offers a great package: a well-cooked patty, a unique sauce, lettuce, and a perfectly toasted bun.  I certainly understand why people love it.  Honestly, the sauce was a bit heavy for me.  The first bite was delectable and cohesive, but I quickly became full.  I'm suppose I'm a burger purist: I like a just crisp bun, a tender patty, and a touch of ketchup.  But for people who want a good, unique burger, this is a great choice.  The crew was especially friendly, and made the experience fun despite the extended wait.  Check out the website and visit the Westport location: http://www.shakeshack.com/

Honorable mention to the other participants... I know I sampled at least 8 burgers!  It was incredibly enetertaining and all went to a good cause.  (I'm referring to the charity, although I suppose that could also be extended to my happy tummy!)

I hope to get more blog posts up in the next few days... I hope you keep checking for them and keep reading!!  I just enjoyed a beautiful meal at Colicchio and Sons that I can't wait to tell you about.  I tried more of their selections that I never got to try before.  Also, look for my contributions on CTBites.com !  It is an enxcellent food blog for people who are interested in the CT restaurant scene.


Top Chef's Cliff



Dining by Design: Fishtail by David Burke, Part II

Chef David Burke and me

The Bible says that "God made man in his image."  Although I'm not a religious person, I couldn't help but think of this during a recent dinner at David Burke's Fishtail in New York City.  I have blogged about Burke's food before; it embodies whimsy, fancy, and creativity.  It's a little bit crazy.  And it turns out, exactly like the chef himself!

On Tuesday August 7, I had the pleasure of meeting Chef David Burke at the end of an amazing dinner.  He proved jovial, humorous, engaging, and genuine.  In the few minutes he stopped at my table, we managed to swap battle stories from cooking in small, apartment-sized kitchens.  His tip?  If you run out of oven space and need to keep food warm, just heat up the dishwasher and shove the food inside.  He graciously answered my questions about the single most influential dish I've ever experienced, a dessert that actually made me laugh out loud, called "Coffee on the Park Bench."  It literally took the form of a park scene complete with a detailed chocolate brownie bench, a white chocolate truffle lampost, and a gravel path of cocoa nibs.  "How did you get the wood grain on the bench?  The end of a toothpick?" I marvelled.  "No, a pastry comb," he chuckled.  "We actually swept it over the chocolate and let it dry.  You have a good eye though!"  While some chef's mantain a highly professional, collected exterior, Chef David Burke was fun and personal... just like the food he crafts!

Dinner itself was exceptional.  Fishtail has been participating in New York City's restaurant week, a biannual event in which upscale restaurants offer three course prix fixe menus for reduced rates.  Diners can order inclusive lunches and dinners for $24.07 or $35, respectively.  When I went, the promotion was underway, and my family and I revelled in the opportunity to taste many wonderful dishes without the high price tag.

Baked oyster amuse bouche

As we sat down, the servers presented us with an amuse bouche: a baked oyster.  It looked deceptively like a traditional baked oyster with breadcrumbs and cheese on top, but it was merely an illusion.  The richness and texture came from spinach.  The salt in the oyster provided a natural condiment for the greens, weaving a perfectly balanced morsel.

For my first course, I selected the calamari salad.  I made my choice once I learned that the calamari was subtley marinated and simply cooked- not fried to oblivion and disguised as it is in many establishments.  There were generous amounts of small calamari ringlets along with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, grapefruit, and delicate slivers of almond.  A yuzu vinaigrette provided a slightly sweet, citrusy finish.  The whole thing came chilled, incredibly refreshing on such a humid summer night. 

Cracker crusted crabcake

My mother also struck the culinary jackpot with her appetizer: the cracker crusted crabcake.  It is a restaurant week rift on the "pretzel-crusted crabcake," which appears on the regular menu and that I blogged about previously.  While the menu staple incorporates pretzel rods assembled over lump crab meat, this appetizer had actual Ritz crackers sandwiching the seafood... so clever!  The salt already present in the cracker seasoned the crab nicely.  My mom found it slightly difficult to eat (should she cut into the cracker?  Knock the little sandwich over?  Pick it up?) but the inventive presentation was worth the momentary confusion, and perhaps even part of its charm.  (She ultimately cut into the cracker and went from there).

There were six entrees to choose from on the restaurant week menu, a wide range compared to most other participants in the promotion.  Most restaurants average around 3 options.  Although everything looked delectable, the salmon called out to me.  The dish was a generous portion of perfectly cooked salmon seared with spices, which I guessed to be a combination of cumin, salt, pepper, and perhaps brown sugar.  The fish sat atop bright green peas with small chunks of cantelope and a few crisp crumbs of smoked ham hock.  Classic combinations- peas and ham, melon and pork- united with salmon and brought together to form one complete, hollistic plate.

Salmon with sweet peas, melon, and ham hock

I firmly believe in dessert, and one thing I love about restaurant week is that it is included.  I enjoyed David Burke's interpretation of a "strawberry shortcake."  Admittedly it was small, the biscuit was slightly larger than a quarter, and my sweet tooth would have preferred something slightly larger.  However, it proved to be delicious.  Small shreds of phyllo gave it a slight crunch and a few dabs of chantilly cream on the plate provided richness.  Although the dessert usually comed with strawberry ice cream, I had a peach sorbet that enhanced the sweet fruity notes of the strawberries.

For those of you who think you missed the August 10 restaurant week deadline at Fishtail... fear not!  David Burke restaurants have extended the offer from Sunday-Friday for both lunch and dinner until Friday September 3!  It's definitely worth it... the food is exceptional and the witty plates will bring a smile to your face!

Fishtail
135 East 62nd Street
(Park & Lexington Avenues)
New York, NY 10065
Phone: 212-754-1300
http://www.fishtaildb.com/