In a recent article for New York Magazine, Felix Salmon documented "pumpkin's rise to baconlike ubiquity." (Side note: I would have though he would have noted its rise to salmon-like ubiquity. Hehe. If you know me, I'm allowed to make last name jokes for good reason....) While I love fall and all of its amazing produce, pumpkin included, I have to agree with him. Pumpkin seems everywhere... and overdone. Burger King Japan offers the Pumpkin Burger, Dunkin Donuts has the pumpkin mocha, and every bistro serves up a version of pumpkin soup. Even the most fervent pumpkin lovers are getting tired by this overcommercialization of the gourd. However, I was reinvigorated by a recent dinner to one of my favorite restaurants in New York City, Colicchio & Sons. The restaurant's pastry chef, Steven Collucci, delivered a delicious pepita brittle, proving that the pumpkin can be reimagined and reincarnated.
"Pepitas" are Mexican pumpkin seeds. The research I've dug up has said there's no difference between the two... although if you have more specific information, I'd be interested to hear it! The brittle is sweet and crisp like a traditional brittle, but actual small pumpkin seeds are baked into it. The result is a component that is not overtly pumpkin. Instead of that sweet tang found in so many commercial pumpkin "treats," the earthy, toasted essence of the gourd comes through with each crunch. It is subtle, elegant, and tastey. The brittle is intended as an addition; it comes as a part of the panna cotta dessert. Personally though, I would put it on everything or eat it plain!
In addition to saving the pumpkin, Colicchio & Sons also breathed new life into the autumn soup! I once more want to state my love of fall produce. However, I have grown tired by the influx of squash, pumpkin, and "fall harvest" soups on shelves and in restaurants. Popularity inevitably leads to mass production which leads to a descrease in quality. I'd lost hope. Until my server offered me that night's special: a parsnip soup with a truffle vinaigrette. Ummm... yes! Parsnips!! What a welcome change amidst the squash ambush!! It seems so simple- a root vegetable, so why not use it for a change- but I'd never encountered it before. And truffle vinaigrette? Yes! What a luxerious addition to a humble soup. The dish was as incredible as I imagined. It was the perfect texture. It was not overwhelmingly thick or filling, which is a fear of mine when I order a soup as an appetizer. It was tasty and satisfying while still leaving room for the subsequent courses.
My other conquests that evening included the beef tartare with smoked egg vinaigrette. It's so hard for me to say I have a "favorite" at Colicchio & Sons. Everything is so good and they always seem to add something new to the menu that I have to try. However, if I had to pick, this would be it. To my recollection, the is the only dish I have ordered more than once- over three times, in fact. As a rule of thumb, I always try to order something new so I experience everything. I only get things more than once if it's exceptional. The smoked egg vinaigrette makes the dish. The smokiness of the vinaigrette wafts through each bite. Furthermore, I got to try the PEI mussels. What a beautiful dish! Fresh roasted tomatoes and lemongrass broth make it extremely elegant and flavorful. The ratio is such that those components enhance the mussels rather than mask them.
The Remi that I blogged so enthusiastically about a few months ago is sadly no longer available. However, I did enjoy the Cinsault-Carignon Hochar Chateau Musar 2007 from Bekaa Valley Lebanon. It is a red wine; deeper than a Pinot but lighter than a rich Cab. I have admired Lebanese wines for several years, but they are not frequently added to wine lists, especially by the glass. I was pleased to see this as an option, and it shows that Colicchio & Sons is willing to take risks when it comes to the list if the wine is of high quality.
The time in the restaurant is always a wonderful experience. The setting is perfect; where else can you find a roaring fireplace on a crisp fall evening? The entire crew you feel welcome from beginning to end. Thank you for another amazing dinner!
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