Dining By Design: Colicchio & Sons (Again- but new and tasty as always!)

In a recent article for New York Magazine, Felix Salmon documented "pumpkin's rise to baconlike ubiquity."  (Side note: I would have though he would have noted its rise to salmon-like ubiquity.  Hehe.  If you know me, I'm allowed to make last name jokes for good reason....)  While I love fall and all of its amazing produce, pumpkin included, I have to agree with him.  Pumpkin seems everywhere... and overdone.  Burger King Japan offers the Pumpkin Burger, Dunkin Donuts has the pumpkin mocha, and every bistro serves up a version of pumpkin soup.  Even the most fervent pumpkin lovers are getting tired by this overcommercialization of the gourd.  However, I was reinvigorated by a recent dinner to one of my favorite restaurants in New York City, Colicchio & Sons.  The restaurant's pastry chef, Steven Collucci, delivered a delicious pepita brittle, proving that the pumpkin can be reimagined and reincarnated.

"Pepitas" are Mexican pumpkin seeds.  The research I've dug up has said there's no difference between the two... although if you have more specific information, I'd be interested to hear it!  The brittle is sweet and crisp like a traditional brittle, but actual small pumpkin seeds are baked into it. The result is a component that is not overtly pumpkin.  Instead of that sweet tang found in so many commercial pumpkin "treats," the earthy, toasted essence of the gourd comes through with each crunch.  It is subtle, elegant, and tastey.  The brittle is intended as an addition; it comes as a part of the panna cotta dessert.  Personally though, I would put it on everything or eat it plain!

In addition to saving the pumpkin, Colicchio & Sons also breathed new life into the autumn soup!  I once more want to state my love of fall produce.  However, I have grown tired by the influx of squash, pumpkin, and "fall harvest" soups on shelves and in restaurants.  Popularity inevitably leads to mass production which leads to a descrease in quality.  I'd lost hope.  Until my server offered me that night's special: a parsnip soup with a truffle vinaigrette.  Ummm... yes!  Parsnips!!  What a welcome change amidst the squash ambush!!  It seems so simple- a root vegetable, so why not use it for a change- but I'd never encountered it before.  And truffle vinaigrette?  Yes!  What a luxerious addition to a humble soup.  The dish was as incredible as I imagined.  It was the perfect texture.  It was not overwhelmingly thick or filling, which is a fear of mine when I order a soup as an appetizer.  It was tasty and satisfying while still leaving room for the subsequent courses.

My other conquests that evening included the beef tartare with smoked egg vinaigrette.  It's so hard for me to say I have a "favorite" at Colicchio & Sons.  Everything is so good and they always seem to add something new to the menu that I have to try.  However, if I had to pick, this would be it.  To my recollection, the is the only dish I have ordered more than once- over three times, in fact.  As a rule of thumb, I always try to order something new so I experience everything.  I only get things more than once if it's exceptional.  The smoked egg vinaigrette makes the dish.  The smokiness of the vinaigrette wafts through each bite.  Furthermore, I got to try the PEI mussels.  What a beautiful dish!  Fresh roasted tomatoes and lemongrass broth make it extremely elegant and flavorful.  The ratio is such that those components enhance the mussels rather than mask them. 

The Remi that I blogged so enthusiastically about a few months ago is sadly no longer available.  However, I did enjoy the Cinsault-Carignon Hochar Chateau Musar 2007 from Bekaa Valley Lebanon.  It is a red wine; deeper than a Pinot but lighter than a rich Cab.  I have admired Lebanese wines for several years, but they are not frequently added to wine lists, especially by the glass.  I was pleased to see this as an option, and it shows that Colicchio & Sons is willing to take risks when it comes to the list if the wine is of high quality.

The time in the restaurant is always a wonderful experience.  The setting is perfect; where else can you find a roaring fireplace on a crisp fall evening?  The entire crew you feel welcome from beginning to end.  Thank you for another amazing dinner!

Dining by Design: Greenwich Food & Wine Festival

Ace of Cakes, Duff Goldman, and me at Greenwich Food & Wine

 Time flies when you're having fun... and when you're just plain busy!!  Between starting a full-time job, moving, and contributing to another established online food blog, I've been negligent in creating new posts.  Fortunately, that busy-ness has also included fun!  Food fun!  My writing for CTBites took me to Barcelona Wine Bar, where I got to be inspired by wine manager Gretchen Thomas: http://www.ctbites.com/home/2012/10/9/gretchen-thomas-of-barcelona-restaurant-group-talks-wine.html .  That same weekend, I won a ticket to the Greenwich, Connecticut Food and Wine Festival.

The festival spanned from Thursday October 4 to Saturday October 6.  It celebrated the vibrant culinary scenes of both Fairfield and Westchester County.  Proceeds went to an excellent cause: The Hole in the Wall Gang Camp, founded by Paul Newman to help families struggling with serious illnesses.  There were specialized events, including Thursday Night's Wine Evening and Friday Night's Tasting Gala.  On Saturday, guests could experience the festival at large.  A "culinary village" boasted food, wine, and spirits from over 90 vendors while celebrity book signings and demonstrations unfolded in tents arond the park.  The afternoon culminated in an epic Burger Battle in which local restaurants tried to serve up the best patty to a panel of celebrity judges.  Heavyweights such as Ted Allen, Graham Elliot, and Duff Goldman were all on hand to sample the entries and share opinions with the crowd.


Ted Allen signs my coveted chef's jacket... it's getting full!

Festival participants had the chance to sample the burgers over the course of the evening.  Each entrant had a booth or a tent that distributed smaller versions of the patties the chefs had the chance to indulge in.  (Although I admit I did get to eat a full-sized, masterfully created burger when Duff slipped me a barely touched burger complete with foie gras!)  I made a point to wear my big girl pants and try at least a taste of all of the burgers available for posterity (OK, and for my own enjoyment, too.)  I know a good burger!!  Below are my winners and findings:

1. Best Burger Patty- In my opinion, the most important part of the burger is the meat itself.  It's got to be the perfect cut of meat... substantial in your mouth, yet tender in texture.  It must also be perfectly cooked:pink in the center and melt-in-your-mouth.  In terms of the patty, the Ginger Man swept me off my feet.  This humble pub outshone the competition with its succulent, moist, tender meat and perfectly toasted bun.  The burger was made to stand alone.  Unlike other vendors who added chutneys and exotic toppings, the Gingerman put out a simple spread of ketchups and mustards.  It was perfection!  For more information on the Gingerman and its locations in Norwalk and Greenwich, visit http://www.gingermannorwalk.com/

2. Best Topping/Addition- Even though I must have had at least 50 samples of food items that afternoon, I am still thinking about the pepper relish served atop the burgers from The Cos Cobber.  The make the relish themselves with fresh Italian peppers.  The peppers hover between sweet and spicy, providing the perfect compliment to the robust nature of the protein.  The patty itself was fine, but nothing special.  The pepper relish was what made it one of my favorite offerings of the evening. For more information, the website is  http://www.thecoscobber.com/The_Cos_Cobber/Home.html .



Graham Elliot and Me... another jacket signer!

3. Best Classic- I usually greeet cult food favorites with healthy skepticism.  It took a friend forcing me to get me to try Sprinkles Cupcakes (which I don't particularly enjoy), I've never set foot in an Olive Garden, and I walk right past in-N-out burger.  The line at Shake Shack spanned almost half the BBQ portion of the park, and I was willing to pass it by.  Fortunately, my companion pulled me into the queque.  "If you did this on a regular day you'd probably wait an hour... this is nothing," she argued.  I'm glad I waited!  The Shake Shack offers a great package: a well-cooked patty, a unique sauce, lettuce, and a perfectly toasted bun.  I certainly understand why people love it.  Honestly, the sauce was a bit heavy for me.  The first bite was delectable and cohesive, but I quickly became full.  I'm suppose I'm a burger purist: I like a just crisp bun, a tender patty, and a touch of ketchup.  But for people who want a good, unique burger, this is a great choice.  The crew was especially friendly, and made the experience fun despite the extended wait.  Check out the website and visit the Westport location: http://www.shakeshack.com/

Honorable mention to the other participants... I know I sampled at least 8 burgers!  It was incredibly enetertaining and all went to a good cause.  (I'm referring to the charity, although I suppose that could also be extended to my happy tummy!)

I hope to get more blog posts up in the next few days... I hope you keep checking for them and keep reading!!  I just enjoyed a beautiful meal at Colicchio and Sons that I can't wait to tell you about.  I tried more of their selections that I never got to try before.  Also, look for my contributions on CTBites.com !  It is an enxcellent food blog for people who are interested in the CT restaurant scene.


Top Chef's Cliff



Dining by Design: Fishtail by David Burke, Part II

Chef David Burke and me

The Bible says that "God made man in his image."  Although I'm not a religious person, I couldn't help but think of this during a recent dinner at David Burke's Fishtail in New York City.  I have blogged about Burke's food before; it embodies whimsy, fancy, and creativity.  It's a little bit crazy.  And it turns out, exactly like the chef himself!

On Tuesday August 7, I had the pleasure of meeting Chef David Burke at the end of an amazing dinner.  He proved jovial, humorous, engaging, and genuine.  In the few minutes he stopped at my table, we managed to swap battle stories from cooking in small, apartment-sized kitchens.  His tip?  If you run out of oven space and need to keep food warm, just heat up the dishwasher and shove the food inside.  He graciously answered my questions about the single most influential dish I've ever experienced, a dessert that actually made me laugh out loud, called "Coffee on the Park Bench."  It literally took the form of a park scene complete with a detailed chocolate brownie bench, a white chocolate truffle lampost, and a gravel path of cocoa nibs.  "How did you get the wood grain on the bench?  The end of a toothpick?" I marvelled.  "No, a pastry comb," he chuckled.  "We actually swept it over the chocolate and let it dry.  You have a good eye though!"  While some chef's mantain a highly professional, collected exterior, Chef David Burke was fun and personal... just like the food he crafts!

Dinner itself was exceptional.  Fishtail has been participating in New York City's restaurant week, a biannual event in which upscale restaurants offer three course prix fixe menus for reduced rates.  Diners can order inclusive lunches and dinners for $24.07 or $35, respectively.  When I went, the promotion was underway, and my family and I revelled in the opportunity to taste many wonderful dishes without the high price tag.

Baked oyster amuse bouche

As we sat down, the servers presented us with an amuse bouche: a baked oyster.  It looked deceptively like a traditional baked oyster with breadcrumbs and cheese on top, but it was merely an illusion.  The richness and texture came from spinach.  The salt in the oyster provided a natural condiment for the greens, weaving a perfectly balanced morsel.

For my first course, I selected the calamari salad.  I made my choice once I learned that the calamari was subtley marinated and simply cooked- not fried to oblivion and disguised as it is in many establishments.  There were generous amounts of small calamari ringlets along with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, grapefruit, and delicate slivers of almond.  A yuzu vinaigrette provided a slightly sweet, citrusy finish.  The whole thing came chilled, incredibly refreshing on such a humid summer night. 

Cracker crusted crabcake

My mother also struck the culinary jackpot with her appetizer: the cracker crusted crabcake.  It is a restaurant week rift on the "pretzel-crusted crabcake," which appears on the regular menu and that I blogged about previously.  While the menu staple incorporates pretzel rods assembled over lump crab meat, this appetizer had actual Ritz crackers sandwiching the seafood... so clever!  The salt already present in the cracker seasoned the crab nicely.  My mom found it slightly difficult to eat (should she cut into the cracker?  Knock the little sandwich over?  Pick it up?) but the inventive presentation was worth the momentary confusion, and perhaps even part of its charm.  (She ultimately cut into the cracker and went from there).

There were six entrees to choose from on the restaurant week menu, a wide range compared to most other participants in the promotion.  Most restaurants average around 3 options.  Although everything looked delectable, the salmon called out to me.  The dish was a generous portion of perfectly cooked salmon seared with spices, which I guessed to be a combination of cumin, salt, pepper, and perhaps brown sugar.  The fish sat atop bright green peas with small chunks of cantelope and a few crisp crumbs of smoked ham hock.  Classic combinations- peas and ham, melon and pork- united with salmon and brought together to form one complete, hollistic plate.

Salmon with sweet peas, melon, and ham hock

I firmly believe in dessert, and one thing I love about restaurant week is that it is included.  I enjoyed David Burke's interpretation of a "strawberry shortcake."  Admittedly it was small, the biscuit was slightly larger than a quarter, and my sweet tooth would have preferred something slightly larger.  However, it proved to be delicious.  Small shreds of phyllo gave it a slight crunch and a few dabs of chantilly cream on the plate provided richness.  Although the dessert usually comed with strawberry ice cream, I had a peach sorbet that enhanced the sweet fruity notes of the strawberries.

For those of you who think you missed the August 10 restaurant week deadline at Fishtail... fear not!  David Burke restaurants have extended the offer from Sunday-Friday for both lunch and dinner until Friday September 3!  It's definitely worth it... the food is exceptional and the witty plates will bring a smile to your face!

Fishtail
135 East 62nd Street
(Park & Lexington Avenues)
New York, NY 10065
Phone: 212-754-1300
http://www.fishtaildb.com/

Cooking Creations: My Twist on Border Grill's Yucatan Pork!

Yucatan Pork at the Border Grill, Las Vegas, NV

When I went to Vegas, I thought that I would be able to get to one restaurant of my choice.  I felt like the luckiest girl in the world when my friend, Nancy, and I wound up with one more full day in Vegas and an extra dinner opportunity before jumping on our red eye flights much later in the night!  I threw a couple of possibilities out there, but ultimately we decided to return to Mandalay Bay to eat at Border Grill, home to Top Chef Master Contestants and acclaimed chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger.  The restaurant is referred to as a "Mexican Restaurant."  The choice of cuisine might seem interesting coming from two American women, and they admit to first encountering Latin food in French restaurants.  Nancy, a Mexican, was highly skeptical about the authenticity of the food, and I admit that I too had my doubts.  However, the food proved that Mary Sue and Susan do Mexican food proud.  I think I actually heard Nancy say, "This tastes like my Mom's!"

I ordered the Yucatan Pork, which consisted of a generous serving of braised pork (which comes shredded apart and tender), 3 homemade tortillas, and banana peel on top.  The large portion elated me, as I often find myself paying steep prices for bite-sized amounts of food at established restaurants.  The pork was extremely unique, and I enjoyed it immensely.  It was flavorful and spicy, but not with the hot spices I typically associate with Mexican cuisine.  Instead, it had the wonderful rich tastes of things like cinnamon.  Orange played a prominent role in the dish; there were actual orange segments within the pork itself.

That night, the dish came with honey-glazed brussels sprouts and black beans.  The brussels sprouts literally melted in my mouth.  I was not expecting to be blown away by a humble brussels sprout, but it was the first thing I tasted on the plate and Nancy was amused to hear the string of accolades that it inspired.

I did add a serving of guacamole to my meal, and I was surprised that the dish itself did not come with it.  Since the pork was so rich and hot, I really needed the cool, creamy guacamole to compliment it.  The guacamole made the dish perfection.  I definitely recommend the Yucatan pork, but I would advise you to order a small serving of guacamole on the side.

If you read my blog, you probably have come to realize I am a huge food dork (and am totally honest about it haha!)  One of my favorite things to do is to try to recreate super-tasty dishes that I experience at restaurants.  (Not for mass consumption or commercial gain- just for the joy of my family's kitchen table!)  Sometimes the restaurant has a recipe that helps me out, other times I have to do it from scratch.  In this case, I found that Mary Sue and Susan had posted a recipe for Yucatan Pork Tacos on their official website: http://marysueandsusan.com/news/Jun09/news061809_1.htm .  (I later found their recipe on Oprah's website as well... and you know if Oprah endorses something it's probably worth it!  )  As for the brussels sprouts, I'd need to try to recreate the glaze- a simple task.

I think it's awesome that restaurants post recipes on their websites and I admire the chefs who share versions of their creations with the public.  But *warning*: do not get overconfident just because you have a recipe in your hand!  Some of the recipes require a lot of work (and I suspect sometimes restaurants share things because they know no one will ever truly be able to make them at home so no clientele will be lost).  This recipe certainly certainly needed a lot of effort, but it was worth it.

I did decide to adapt the recipe, which I frequently do.  Mary Sue and Susan call for pork butt, a slow cooking cut of pork that braises so that it can be pulled apart to resemble barbequed pulled pork.  I really love pork tenderloin though.  I decided that I would use their spices, ingredients, and overall cooking methods, but alter the cooking times, some of the marinading, and the final presentation to account for pork tenderloin.

Creating the Achiote Paste

Step 1: Locate Achiote Paste
First item on the ingredients list: 1/2 cup achiote paste.  I looked for a note, an asterisk, something to give me a little bit of explanation, but found none.  An internet search revealed that Achiote paste is "a thick, deep-red seasoning also known as recado colorado" that is  sold under several brand names and need only be mixed with bitter orange juice, lime juice, or vinegar before use." (chow.com).  Well, those "several" brand names are hard to find!  I visted the local supermarket, Stop and Shop, Grade A, and Whole Foods to no avail.  I finally wound up finding Achiote seed (but no paste) at a Wegman's on a trip to upstate New York.  I figured that if I had the seed I could find a recipe for paste and create one myself.  I located such a recipe on Gourmet Sleuth, and a few crosschecks revealed that the recipe seemed culturally authentic: http://www.gourmetsleuth.com/Recipes/Mexican-Spices--Condiments-847/Achiote-Paste-Recipe-260.aspx .  The recipe says it makes 1/4 of a cup but the Yucatan Pork requires 1/2 cup.  I found that the amounts on Gourmet Sleuth paste did yield 1/2 a cup though.  I also chose to use white wine vinegar with a splash of orange juice where you are given the option.

*Note Achiote seeds can also be referred to as Annatto Seeds

My package of frozen banana leaves

Step 2: Locate Banana Leaves
This was almost as much of an ordeal as tracking down the achiote paste, but I admit that I am partially to blame!  I visited Whole Foods, several commercial supermarkets, and even a corner Guatamalen market (they were shocked to see me there!) with no success.  I finally found frozen banana leaves at Grade A.  It turns out that while fresh banana leaves are a rarity, Goya makes frozen banana leaves that are available in most frozen food aisles.  All you have to do is roll them out, let them thaw, and pat them dry.

Step 3: COOK! CREATE!
The Yucatan pork requires several steps.  It, along with sides of brussels sprouts and guacamole, required a full afternoon in the kitchen.  The pork must marinate in a combination of achiote paste and other ingredients, which of course must be prepared first, for at least 4 hours.  The recipe calls for it to rest at room temperature, but mine went right in the fridge because we're in the midst of an epic heatwave and I wasn't taking any chances!  One of the best tips I've ever gotten is to do all marinating in a Ziploc bag- that way you can shake and distribute liquids easily as the day goes on.

While the pork sits, be prepared to roast chiles, char tomatoes, and char onions.  The recipe provides instructions for how to broil, steam, and peel the chiles.

Once all of the individual components of the dish were ready, I was ready to assemble them for the oven!  Building the dish up was a lot of fun!  I started by lining a glass casserole dish with banana leaves.  I then put in my 2   1-lb pork tenderloins that were marinating in the fridge.  I poured the marinade in with them to add moisture and flavor.  Next, I placed the roasted vegatables on top of the pork.  It looked like this:

Casserole dish en route to oven

One more layer of banana leaves went on top.  Then, I wrapped foil tightly around the entire thing.  That all went into the oven.

Step 4: Alter Cooking for a Pork Tenderloin
The USDA recommends cooking a pork tenderloin at 350 F for 20-30 minutes per pound.  The ultimate goal for the meat to reach 145 F, or just under that in the dish as it continues to cook when it rests.  Border Grill's Yucatan Pork derives much of its essence from the slow roasting period though.  The flavors develop and ingredients like the banana leaves, garlic, and vegetables do not burn.  Therefore, I lowered the temperature to 300 F.  I checked my meat frequently with a meat thermometer until it reached just shy of 145.  It wound up cooking for about an hour and 20 minutes.

I served the pork in 6 oz sliced servings.  I spooned 1-2 tablespoons of marinade over each.  A braised pork butt would have retained more liquid, and I wanted my version of the dish to still have that moisture and flavor.

And the brussels sprouts?
Nothing fancy... but good!  The key ingredient in Border Grill's brussels sprouts was the honey.  I made a glaze with honey and my favorite compliment to it: sherry vinegar.  You can make as much glaze as you need for the amount of sprouts you have.  It's a simple 3:1 ratio of vinegar:honey.  I boiled the sprouts for 2 minutes, then transferred them to a nonstick skillet with cooking spray.  I added 1/4 cup water, covered it, put it on medium, and let them cook up for 8 minutes.  I then added the glaze and let them go for another 1-2 minutes, stirring occassionally.  They were not as good as the ones at Border Grill... and I doubt any vegetable I ever encounter will be as singularly impressive as that one morsel I had there!!  But they were comparable and a nice side nonetheless.

Guacamole

Brussels Sprouts

 

And the guacamole?

I have tried numerous guacamole recipes (including Eva Longoria's!), but I always come back to the guacamole recipe from the Williams Sonoma catalogue: http://www.williams-sonoma.com/recipe/guacamole.html?cm_src=RECIPESEARCH .  I always add a bit more onion and cilantro, though.  No worries if you don't have the mortar and pestle they're trying to sell (I don't!)... ripe avocados and diced vegetables will mix easily with just a bowl and spoon.  If my avocados are not ripe and need some encouraging, I've also turned to my food processor.

And the WINE...
2009 Treleaven Dry Rose from King Ferry Winery on Cayuga Lake in New York.  I was so fortunate to discover this amazing local winery during my time spent at Cornell.  Each wine is refined, carefully made, and elegant.  The Rose is a true prize- a throwback to the dry Roses of the past before Rose became so commercialized.  The newest vintage is different than the 09, but still a true beauty.

The Verdict
I am the first to admit when a cooking creation goes awry.  I try to critique my food with as much honesty and objectiveness as I approach anything else.  With the exception of a few larger brussels sprouts that could have been more tender, this meal was a homerun.  The flavors of the pork were exceptional, and the dish is one of the greatest I think I have ever made.  It was exciting to put my own twist (tenderloin) on such a successful restaurant dish.  Our versions and approaches were very different, but they both resulted in amazing products.  Thank you to Mary Sue, Susan, and the Border Grill for a wonderful dinner and the chance to continue the fun at home!

By the way, that last picture is what my plate looked like at the end of my meal at the Border Grill.  "Oh my God!" the waiter exclaimed when he came to clear the plates.  "I'm sorry," he stammered, "But it's just that I've only seen 2 or 3 people finish it... and none of them look like you."  Haha!  So good!  And it had been a long day of walking!

Border Grill, Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas: http://www.mandalaybay.com/dining/border-grill/

Dining by Design (Vegas Edition Part 1!): Fleur by Hubert Keller

Ahi Tuna Tacos

Getting to Vegas has been a dream of mine for a long time: food, shows, dancing, sunshine... fun!  When two college friends that I had not seen in over a year invited me to join them for a weekend there, I quickly jumped at the chance.  I had missed them so much and the destination sounded perfect.  I realized as I packed that I was probably destined to get to Vegas at some point; I was suprised at just how many items in my closet were bedazzled, pink, or sparkley :).

One of my friends is a Vegas veteran and took care of planning the weekend for us (or as much as you can "plan" in Vegas.)  At the risk of stepping on her toes, I told her I had one demand: that we eat at Fleur by Hubert Keller at some point on the trip.  I promised to go along with anything else they all devised so long as I could live out a foodie fantasy.  They graciously agreed despite their general indifference to the culinary world and our humble budgets.  (Which I love you all for... thanks, girlies!)

One of my friends and I ordered the ahi tuna tacos.  I had seen them recommended in several reviews of the restaurant, and the waiter told us they were one of the most popular items.  The majority of Fleur's menu consists of "small plates," but we were surprised at just how small the tacos themselves were.  (The picture at the beginning of the post makes them seem deceptively large).  The bites were tasty though.  The serrano chili gave each taco an especially spicy kick at the end that packed a punch.  The touch of avocado cream was refreshing relief from the pepper and the tuna itself was pink, fresh, and lightly salted.  Overall, I would characterize the dish as "expected."  It was delicious to be sure, but I felt as though I had seen the presentation and experienced the flavor profile multiple times before.  I can certainly see why it is one of the "most popular" selections.  For the typical Vegas diner, it is highly accessible and easily understood.

Foie gras

For my second small plate, I decided to try something more gourmet.  I ordered the seared foie gras... which I am embarassed to admit was the first foie gras of my life!  I confess that I really wanted the foie gras torchon, which came with elderflower foam, but the server told me they were out of it that night.  I was slightly disappointed and do still wonder what that elderflower foam would have tasted like, but the seared foie gras proved to be a viable substitute.  The foie gras itself was cooked perfectly (or as far as I could tell being a foie gras newbie!) I loved the taste and will certainly be ordering foie gras in the future.

I have mixed feelings about the components of the dish itself.  I did love the pickled shitake mushrooms.  I have a slight obsession with pickling things (see my last post where I coveted the pickled cherries at Colicchio & Sons) and this was my first encounter with pickled mushrooms.  The earthiness of mushrooms certainly make them an appropriate choice for brine.  I didn't quite understand the three small piles of pineapple on the rim of the plate though.  Was I supposed to eat the pineapple alone? Add it to my fork?  Mix it with the sauce?  I ultimately used it as kind of a palate cleanser- eating it by itself between bites of the foie gras.  As for the sauce: it was sweet, rich, and pleasing on its own.  However, the foie gras and mushrooms came sitting in it, so some bites were saturated in it and overwhelmed by it as a result.  I would have liked it more if there was less sauce in the bowl, or if it had been more seperate from the foie gras and mushrooms.

Of all of the small plates sampled that night, I would give the crown to a dish one of my friends ordered: the ceci frito, or fried chickpeas.  At only $3 and with such a simple name, it could easily be overlooked.  This seemingly humble small plate turned out to be generous in portion and remarkable in flavor.  The lightly crisp chickpeas tasted of smokiness and spice.  I think it is a must have when dining at Fleur, and at that price there's really no reason not to order it.

Then came to dessert.  And all I have to say is OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD!!!  For those of you still reading at this point, strap in because I'm totally going to geek out.  I ordered the "pineapple carpaccio" which came with lime sorbet and cilantro granite.  THE CILANTRO GRANITE WAS THE GREATEST THING I HAVE EVER TASTED.  It looked kind of odd... a pile of green flakes sitting under some sorbet... but it was amazing!!  It had the spice of cilantro, a touch of sweetness from sugar, and an icy frozen finish.

Pineapple carpaccio with cilantro granite (the green component at right)

Have you ever played the game "Do you want to buy a duck?"  For those of you who have never been to summer camp... it's a circle game where a person turns to the person next to him and has the following conversation: "Do you want to buy a duck?"  "A what?"  "A duck."  "Does it quack?"  "Of course it quacks."  This goes around the entire circle.  Well, a variation of this game went around our circular table with the debut of the cilantro granite.  It started with me turning to my friend and went as follows:

Me: "You have to try this!"
Her: "What the hell is that?  It looks crazy!  No!"
Me: "Seriously."
Her: "Ok... OH MY GOD. THAT IS AMAZING! WHAT IS THAT?"

And then she turned to the person next to her and assumed my lines.  The person next to her protested as she did following almost the same script, but had the same wonderful epiphany.  And it went all the way around the table until we got back to me and everyone wanted my cilantro granite.  We all agreed that we would have eaten bowls and bowls of it by itself, but it was even better with the other parts of the dish: the lime sorbet and the thinly shaved pieces of pineapple.

(Question to Hubert Keller: I noticed that the oyster small plate comes with a "margarita sorbet."  Is there a difference between the margarita sorbet and the lime sorbet?")

It has been a few days since I came back from Vegas, and I can still not stop thinking about that cilantro granite.  I am so obsessed that I attempted to make my own today, but that's not exactly the kind of thing that has recipes available... or really any mention in the google-sphere.  I wound up blanching some cilantro, mincing it, soaking it in a simple sugar that I made, straining it, and freezing it.  It tasted OK but was nothing like what I experienced at Fleur.  (And now my hands reek of cilantro haha.)

At the end of our meal, I got the chance to meet the one and only Hubert Keller, the Top Chef Master himself.  I thanked him for the meal and dorked out a little bit when I told him I was a huge fan, a foodie, and a recreational cook who looked up to him.  He graciously posed for a picture (and even signed a piece of napkin that I could affix to my coveted chef's jacket when I got home haha).

Chef Hubert Keller and Me

I certainly enjoyed the meal and even my non-foodie friends frequently remarked on how exceptional it was throughout our vacation.  I left with a full stomach... and a newfound craving for cilantro granite.

Fleur by Hubert Keller

Located at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas, Nevada

Reserve Online (website below) or call 702.632.7200

http://www.mandalaybay.com/dining/fleur/

Wine-ings: Insolia-Grecanico Ramí COS 2009 Sicily Italy

On Friday night, I got to see the love of my life again... and by "love of my life" I'm referring to New York City, epicenter of my universe.  I went in to celebrate a belated Father's Day and the end of a school year with a dinner at Colicchio & Sons followed by the play Food and Fadwa.  (The play was SPECTACULAR.  For more information about it, please see the end of the post.)

Duck confit with pickled cherries, haricot verts, and polenta

Colicchio & Sons was amazing- as always!  The meal began with freshly made sesame bread bread that is baked on premises and served warm.  (I try not to dig into the bread baskets at restaurants to save room for dinner, but at Colicchio & Sons I can't help but go back for seconds... so good!) As an appetizer, I ordered a radish salad with bacon bits and sherry vinaigrette.  My entree was a duck confit with pickled cherries and haricot verts.  Every time I visit, C&S is pickling something new: watermelon, radishes, cherries.... The cherries were a nice accent.  The bitterness of the brine balanced the sweet cherry, making it appropriate for a main meat dish.  For dessert I had Stephen's cookie jar and a side of caramel popcorn.  Yum!

Insolia-Grecanic Rami 2009

Although everything about the meal was memorable, the wine was the true discovery of the evening.  I ordered something I had never had before, a wine listed as "Insolia-Grecanic Rami COS 2009 Sicily Italy."  I have tried numerous wines and varietals, but I confess I was unfamiliar with Insolia and Grecanic.  The wine's color was truly unique; it could have been mistaken for a mead.  It was a rich golden brown.  At first glance the server described it as "straw," but we all agreed it was more complex than that.  It certainly had honey tones.

*Side note from a dork: I am in the process of settling into a new apartment.  As a result, I happen to have Sherwin Williams paint samples in front of me.  If memory serves, the wine is like a SW 6677 a.k.a. Goldenrod, but it was a few days ago and this is a piece of cardboard paint sample I'm looking at... haha

The taste was indescribable, but I'll try!  The flavor crept on me.  At first, it tasted like a thick water... then whoa!  There was nothing fruity or sweet about it.  Nothing grassy or herbal either.  It was stone.  And nut.  And earth.  Some internet searches revealed that the wine is aged in conrete and fermented in cement.  That certainly accounts for the distinct taste!  I was- and still am- bewildered in a good way.  I would not call it run of the mill or easy drinking, but it certainly left an impression.  I am always on the quest for unique wines.  I kind of loved it.

After describing the Rami to a friend of mine, he guided me to a Satrico 2010 Lazio Bianco for comparison.  It's 34% Chardonnay, 33% Sauvignon, and 33% Trebbiano Giallo.  While it was tasty, it was only a bit reminiscent of the Rami.  To get the Rami from that bottle, you would have to darken the color, strip away the sweetness (there's not much in the Satrico, but you'd have to do away with it all), and amp up all of the minteral/earthy notes that hit you at the end.

Open note to Colicchio & Sons: Please keep a bottle of the Rami on hand for when I'm in next!  I'm still trying to wrap my head around it... in a good way... and it will take at least one more visit before I figure out what all that complexity is!

The cookie jar... complete with a special message!

Caramel popcorn

And now for notes on the play...
Meet Fadwa Faranesh, an unmarried, 30-something Palestinian woman
living in Bethlehem in the politically volatile West Bank. Known for her
delectable cooking and deep-seated sense of duty to her family and aging father, our kitchen maven insists on continuing the preparations for the
wedding of her younger sister, despite constraints of daily life under
occupation. Politics blend with family tensions to create a sometimes
humorous and sometimes heartbreaking meal. Story by Lameece Issaq
and Jacob Kader and directed by Shana Gold, this new play melds the
fight a Palestinian family wages to hold onto its traditional culture with its
need to celebrate love, joy and hope. NYTW teams up with company-in-residence Noor Theatre to present FOOD AND FADWA.
http://www.nytw.org/food_and_fadwa_info.asp

Dining by Design: Fishtail by David Burke

When life hands you lemons... run away to New York city?!

After a particularly difficult couple of days, I decided to get my happy back by visiting my favorite place on earth... New York City.  My plan was simple: behold the diamonds at Tiffany's.  Find a sunny rock in Central Park where I could lay back and read a good book.  Get a little work done at the Starbuck's in the Trump Tower.  Try on some sparkly headbands at Bendel's.  And have drinks and appetizers at the end of the day at a good restaurant.  I selected Fishtail by David Burke, a favorite of mine and a place where I knew I could get some much-needed fun and relief.  (I also won some facebook contests there recently!)

Fishtail has two sections: an upstairs dining room and a downstairs that serves as a bar/late night area.  The downstairs has the seats at the bar, a corner table, and several booths complete with cushioned seats, candles, and fluffy pillows.  The downstairs was what drew me to Fishtail on that  night.  I wanted somewhere I could have a sophisticated, yet somewhat intimate and casual experience.  Someplace I could fly under the radar in a chic setting.  Many restaurants blend the regular dining space with the bar, but Fishtail's two levels give it a whole different vibe.

In keeping with the theme of the day, "getting my happy back," I ordered a cocktail named "habitual happiness."  The drink is a blend of St. germain, cointreau, rose water, prosecco, and wild hibiscus flower.  The Middle Eastern studies major in me found this appealing.  I'm not sure if the eclectic American chef intended it to be a throwback to my visits to Egypt and Dubai, but the rose water and hibiscus flavors brought me back there instantly.  The cocktail was the perfect combination of sugar, florals, and acidity.  It had fruity qualities, but the drier prosecco and carbonation balanced the sweetness.  It was refreshing and had a slightly feminine touch... perfection for me :)!

As an appetizer, I ordered the shrimp roll.  "Shrimp roll" sounds traditional and simple, but anyone aquainted with David Burke knows that is never the case.  This shrimp roll came with pinapple inside and a side of lemon harissa.  The ratio of pinapple to shrimp was wonderful: a sweet kick without consuming the palate.  The lemon harissa was a great touch and added spice and acid to the protein and fruit.  (Side note to David Burke: Between the harissa and the cocktail, have you been journeying into the Middle East lately?)

That was what I ordered... but the meal was far from over!!!  The crew had remembered my facebook wins and were sooo kind!!  (Maybe they and/or the universe had also sensed my need for some enjoyment....)  Joel and the general manager Peter, made the experience extra-special by serving us additional David Burke specialities!  The first dish to arrive, the pretzel crusted crab cake, turned out to be my favorite of the entire evening.  Again, the phrase "pretzel-crusted" is deceptively simple.  What we got was not pretzel crumbs over a protein and fried, but actual pretzel sticks on top of delicious crab!  The crab meat was almost pure... not oven-fried or mixed with mayonaisse beyond recognition.  I love salt, and the pretzels gave the appetizer a slightly salty profile that I enjoyed.  The presentation resembled a small raft... so cute :)! 

Pastrami salmon

We also recieved the Burke interpretation of smoked salmon.  The creative twist on this dish was pastrami.  They disguise it on the underside of the salmon, so the pastrami taste hits you as an unexpected suprise at the end of the bite.  The dish comes with potato cakes and horseradish creme fraiche.

I guess the kitchen got the memo that one of my mottos in life is "Life is short... eat dessert first!" because they brought us cheesecake lollipops.  My date (a.k.a. my dad, who has an office in NYC!) pretty much devoured those, but it was all good because I'd saved my "dessert pocket" for the David Burke peanut brittle that they place on the counter instead of those silly after-dinner mints.  ("Dessert pocket is a term I coined at age 2.  Apparently when I used to eat a lot at dinner and still request dessert, I would tell my protesting mother that I had a "dessert pocket" reserved exclusively for dessert that never got full from dinner.)  Yummmm!!!

The night was exceptional in all regards.  The crew was so nice and generous.  The food was both creative and delicious!  I left the restaurant with a full belly... and my HAPPY BACK :)!

Cheesecake lollipops: Bubble gum (front) and chocolate (back)

Fishtail by David Burke
135 East 62nd Street
(Park & Lexington Avenues)
New York, NY 10065
http://www.fishtail.db.com
Phone: 212.754.1300