So how did I come to be behind the scenes at this remarkable New York City destination? A few weeks ago, I was invited to attend a tasting hosted by The House of Burgundy. The house has been importing wine since 1934. The event was particularly special because many of the wines were gems still finding their way to the U.S. market or soon to be released. Equally exciting were the bottles’ origins; many of them heralded from regions not yet recognized for their wines like Lebanon, Bolivia, and Turkey.
I have embraced Middle Eastern wines for some time. Last year, I explored Lebanese wines in my Winesday column for CTBites. After the Mohegan Sun Winefest, I labeled the Vinkara Wines from Turkey as "wines to watch." The evening was a once in a lifetime opportunity for me to fully immerse myself in wines from the region. I loved all of the night’s offerings, but the wines from Turkey particularly captured my attention.
I was astounded at the number of Turkish wines represented that evening. Four vineyards came and each brought between 4 and 9 bottles. It’s mystifying to me that an entire region full of talented, busy winemakers has flown under the radar for so long. The lack of exposure seems to breed the misconception that the wines from the area are somehow amateur. Elizabeth Fried of House of Burgundy recognizes the struggle.
“It’s a discomfort,” she theorizes. “Most people aren’t looking for something new. They’re looking for something safe.”
What most people don’t know is that Turkey is one of the oldest wine-producing regions. Archaebotanists believe that the grape itself was discovered in Eastern Anatolia. They have also dated viticulture in Turkey back to 7000 years ago. The country is said to be home to between 600–1200 indigenous varietals. Another false assumption is that such an exotic birthplace must create bottles that compete with American foods. I have found that the wines from Turkey pair with the foods I love more artfully than any of the other bottles I have encountered.
First, I stopped at the table devoted to Corvus Vineyards located in Bozcaada, Turkey. The owners began as architects, but felt wine was their true calling. They went on to open a successful wine bar in Istanbul. They have wines at various price points. The Karga White and Red are more wallet-friendly options. The white is a blend of two indigenous varietals: Vasilaki and Cavus. I found it full of body- on the spectrum of Chardonnay. The red is 70% Kuntra, a local grape, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The addition of Cabernet makes it especially palatable. The “Cruturk” lies at their higher end at about $150 a bottle. It contains 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc. It was one of my favorite wines of the evening. It was round and full, bursting with notes of pepper and soil. I would put it up against any coveted Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
Next, I went to Kavaklidere Wines, one of the “oldest and largest wine producers of Turkey” according to House of Burgundy. This 5371 hectare vineyard is in Anatolia. Unlike other producers who frequently turn to internationally known grapes, Kavaklidere focuses almost entirely on indigenous varietals. They too have tiers of price. They start at the Selection series and move up to the Ancrya series. They work their way up to the Prestige, Ergeo, Pendore, and Cotes d’Avanos lines respectively. Of the selection products, I most enjoyed the Beyaz 2010. It was a white bottle, a 50/50 blend of Narince and Emir. Mild oaking and the Narince gave it a fuller body reminiscent of Chardonnay. The Beyaz had less weight than the Ancrya Narince though. The Emir lent the Selection vino a light crispness that the 100% Narince did not have. I fell in love with the rich palette of the Ancrya Narince immediately. At around $15, it is a true steal. The Prestige wines are made differently. Rather than use oak, they use stainless steel to enhance the flavor of the local grapes. The Cotes d’Avanos goes a step further by letting the grapes sit on the lees. All were delicious.
I then journeyed over to Suvla. I was familiar with them from the Greenwich Food & Wine Festival; Greg von Hess of Val’s Putnam Wine & Spirits brought a few of their wines with him that day. The family-owned vineyard is located in Eceabat. They have won a number of international wine contests and have participated in the Masters of Wine and Master Sommelier Weekends in Turkey. I loved each and every one of the wines Suvla had to offer. The Sauvignon Blanc was toasty while retaining a touch of minerality. Hess applauded it for its “big mouth feel.” The reds proved equally delectable. The Sur 2012 was more Bordeaux style. It combined Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. It had the succulence of black fruit without becoming overly heavy.
“None of them have a lot of tannins. They are very clean,” explained von Hess. Selim, the vineyard owner, confirmed his assertion. He revealed that the wines are “unfiltered and have low sulfites.”
My favorite wine of theirs was the Sir. The wine had a handwritten label, embodying the novelty of the bottle before me. Salim referred to it as more Rhone in Style. It was a true study in texture- exuding in flavor while being velvety smooth.
The fourth and final table belonged to Urla. The name refers to the name of the town when it existed over 500 years ago. The wines were literally brand new; the first shipment went through customs the day before the tasting. Overall, this was one of my favorite tables of the evening. The fact that the wines were Turkish could have been revolutionizing enough, but Urla pushed the envelope even more. For example, they are the only Turkish vineyard to utilize Nero d’Avolo, a notoriously Sicilian varietal. The Chairman, Can Ortabas, recounted how they saw the potential in the Sicilian grape when no one else did.
“It was though of as ‘cheap’ but there was something in it,” he recounts. “It was powerful with lots of forrest fruit.” This was one of my favorite wines of the evening. It is the perfect balance of spice and fruit. I detected blackberry and plum on the nose and tongue. It would make the quintessential holiday wine.
I cannot wait to get my hands on these wines. However, the Turkish wines are still awaiting their debut to the U.S. Market. For now, they are only available on a small scale.
“Right now it’s all about who you know,” the representative from Corvus lamented. “You have to know where the pockets are.
Fortunately, the future for the wines is bright. Hopefully, they will be available on our shelves in the upcoming months.
“I believe in these wines; I see the potential,” Fried declares.
She is not alone. I attest to the quality of these wines and hope that the American market embraces them. They are magnificent; a delicious embodiment of history and terroir.
Von Hess summarizes their glory artfully:
“Welcome to the New Old World Turkish Wines....10,000 years in the making.”
No comments:
Post a Comment