Cooking Creations: My Twist on Border Grill's Yucatan Pork!

Yucatan Pork at the Border Grill, Las Vegas, NV

When I went to Vegas, I thought that I would be able to get to one restaurant of my choice.  I felt like the luckiest girl in the world when my friend, Nancy, and I wound up with one more full day in Vegas and an extra dinner opportunity before jumping on our red eye flights much later in the night!  I threw a couple of possibilities out there, but ultimately we decided to return to Mandalay Bay to eat at Border Grill, home to Top Chef Master Contestants and acclaimed chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger.  The restaurant is referred to as a "Mexican Restaurant."  The choice of cuisine might seem interesting coming from two American women, and they admit to first encountering Latin food in French restaurants.  Nancy, a Mexican, was highly skeptical about the authenticity of the food, and I admit that I too had my doubts.  However, the food proved that Mary Sue and Susan do Mexican food proud.  I think I actually heard Nancy say, "This tastes like my Mom's!"

I ordered the Yucatan Pork, which consisted of a generous serving of braised pork (which comes shredded apart and tender), 3 homemade tortillas, and banana peel on top.  The large portion elated me, as I often find myself paying steep prices for bite-sized amounts of food at established restaurants.  The pork was extremely unique, and I enjoyed it immensely.  It was flavorful and spicy, but not with the hot spices I typically associate with Mexican cuisine.  Instead, it had the wonderful rich tastes of things like cinnamon.  Orange played a prominent role in the dish; there were actual orange segments within the pork itself.

That night, the dish came with honey-glazed brussels sprouts and black beans.  The brussels sprouts literally melted in my mouth.  I was not expecting to be blown away by a humble brussels sprout, but it was the first thing I tasted on the plate and Nancy was amused to hear the string of accolades that it inspired.

I did add a serving of guacamole to my meal, and I was surprised that the dish itself did not come with it.  Since the pork was so rich and hot, I really needed the cool, creamy guacamole to compliment it.  The guacamole made the dish perfection.  I definitely recommend the Yucatan pork, but I would advise you to order a small serving of guacamole on the side.

If you read my blog, you probably have come to realize I am a huge food dork (and am totally honest about it haha!)  One of my favorite things to do is to try to recreate super-tasty dishes that I experience at restaurants.  (Not for mass consumption or commercial gain- just for the joy of my family's kitchen table!)  Sometimes the restaurant has a recipe that helps me out, other times I have to do it from scratch.  In this case, I found that Mary Sue and Susan had posted a recipe for Yucatan Pork Tacos on their official website: http://marysueandsusan.com/news/Jun09/news061809_1.htm .  (I later found their recipe on Oprah's website as well... and you know if Oprah endorses something it's probably worth it!  )  As for the brussels sprouts, I'd need to try to recreate the glaze- a simple task.

I think it's awesome that restaurants post recipes on their websites and I admire the chefs who share versions of their creations with the public.  But *warning*: do not get overconfident just because you have a recipe in your hand!  Some of the recipes require a lot of work (and I suspect sometimes restaurants share things because they know no one will ever truly be able to make them at home so no clientele will be lost).  This recipe certainly certainly needed a lot of effort, but it was worth it.

I did decide to adapt the recipe, which I frequently do.  Mary Sue and Susan call for pork butt, a slow cooking cut of pork that braises so that it can be pulled apart to resemble barbequed pulled pork.  I really love pork tenderloin though.  I decided that I would use their spices, ingredients, and overall cooking methods, but alter the cooking times, some of the marinading, and the final presentation to account for pork tenderloin.

Creating the Achiote Paste

Step 1: Locate Achiote Paste
First item on the ingredients list: 1/2 cup achiote paste.  I looked for a note, an asterisk, something to give me a little bit of explanation, but found none.  An internet search revealed that Achiote paste is "a thick, deep-red seasoning also known as recado colorado" that is  sold under several brand names and need only be mixed with bitter orange juice, lime juice, or vinegar before use." (chow.com).  Well, those "several" brand names are hard to find!  I visted the local supermarket, Stop and Shop, Grade A, and Whole Foods to no avail.  I finally wound up finding Achiote seed (but no paste) at a Wegman's on a trip to upstate New York.  I figured that if I had the seed I could find a recipe for paste and create one myself.  I located such a recipe on Gourmet Sleuth, and a few crosschecks revealed that the recipe seemed culturally authentic: http://www.gourmetsleuth.com/Recipes/Mexican-Spices--Condiments-847/Achiote-Paste-Recipe-260.aspx .  The recipe says it makes 1/4 of a cup but the Yucatan Pork requires 1/2 cup.  I found that the amounts on Gourmet Sleuth paste did yield 1/2 a cup though.  I also chose to use white wine vinegar with a splash of orange juice where you are given the option.

*Note Achiote seeds can also be referred to as Annatto Seeds

My package of frozen banana leaves

Step 2: Locate Banana Leaves
This was almost as much of an ordeal as tracking down the achiote paste, but I admit that I am partially to blame!  I visited Whole Foods, several commercial supermarkets, and even a corner Guatamalen market (they were shocked to see me there!) with no success.  I finally found frozen banana leaves at Grade A.  It turns out that while fresh banana leaves are a rarity, Goya makes frozen banana leaves that are available in most frozen food aisles.  All you have to do is roll them out, let them thaw, and pat them dry.

Step 3: COOK! CREATE!
The Yucatan pork requires several steps.  It, along with sides of brussels sprouts and guacamole, required a full afternoon in the kitchen.  The pork must marinate in a combination of achiote paste and other ingredients, which of course must be prepared first, for at least 4 hours.  The recipe calls for it to rest at room temperature, but mine went right in the fridge because we're in the midst of an epic heatwave and I wasn't taking any chances!  One of the best tips I've ever gotten is to do all marinating in a Ziploc bag- that way you can shake and distribute liquids easily as the day goes on.

While the pork sits, be prepared to roast chiles, char tomatoes, and char onions.  The recipe provides instructions for how to broil, steam, and peel the chiles.

Once all of the individual components of the dish were ready, I was ready to assemble them for the oven!  Building the dish up was a lot of fun!  I started by lining a glass casserole dish with banana leaves.  I then put in my 2   1-lb pork tenderloins that were marinating in the fridge.  I poured the marinade in with them to add moisture and flavor.  Next, I placed the roasted vegatables on top of the pork.  It looked like this:

Casserole dish en route to oven

One more layer of banana leaves went on top.  Then, I wrapped foil tightly around the entire thing.  That all went into the oven.

Step 4: Alter Cooking for a Pork Tenderloin
The USDA recommends cooking a pork tenderloin at 350 F for 20-30 minutes per pound.  The ultimate goal for the meat to reach 145 F, or just under that in the dish as it continues to cook when it rests.  Border Grill's Yucatan Pork derives much of its essence from the slow roasting period though.  The flavors develop and ingredients like the banana leaves, garlic, and vegetables do not burn.  Therefore, I lowered the temperature to 300 F.  I checked my meat frequently with a meat thermometer until it reached just shy of 145.  It wound up cooking for about an hour and 20 minutes.

I served the pork in 6 oz sliced servings.  I spooned 1-2 tablespoons of marinade over each.  A braised pork butt would have retained more liquid, and I wanted my version of the dish to still have that moisture and flavor.

And the brussels sprouts?
Nothing fancy... but good!  The key ingredient in Border Grill's brussels sprouts was the honey.  I made a glaze with honey and my favorite compliment to it: sherry vinegar.  You can make as much glaze as you need for the amount of sprouts you have.  It's a simple 3:1 ratio of vinegar:honey.  I boiled the sprouts for 2 minutes, then transferred them to a nonstick skillet with cooking spray.  I added 1/4 cup water, covered it, put it on medium, and let them cook up for 8 minutes.  I then added the glaze and let them go for another 1-2 minutes, stirring occassionally.  They were not as good as the ones at Border Grill... and I doubt any vegetable I ever encounter will be as singularly impressive as that one morsel I had there!!  But they were comparable and a nice side nonetheless.

Guacamole

Brussels Sprouts

 

And the guacamole?

I have tried numerous guacamole recipes (including Eva Longoria's!), but I always come back to the guacamole recipe from the Williams Sonoma catalogue: http://www.williams-sonoma.com/recipe/guacamole.html?cm_src=RECIPESEARCH .  I always add a bit more onion and cilantro, though.  No worries if you don't have the mortar and pestle they're trying to sell (I don't!)... ripe avocados and diced vegetables will mix easily with just a bowl and spoon.  If my avocados are not ripe and need some encouraging, I've also turned to my food processor.

And the WINE...
2009 Treleaven Dry Rose from King Ferry Winery on Cayuga Lake in New York.  I was so fortunate to discover this amazing local winery during my time spent at Cornell.  Each wine is refined, carefully made, and elegant.  The Rose is a true prize- a throwback to the dry Roses of the past before Rose became so commercialized.  The newest vintage is different than the 09, but still a true beauty.

The Verdict
I am the first to admit when a cooking creation goes awry.  I try to critique my food with as much honesty and objectiveness as I approach anything else.  With the exception of a few larger brussels sprouts that could have been more tender, this meal was a homerun.  The flavors of the pork were exceptional, and the dish is one of the greatest I think I have ever made.  It was exciting to put my own twist (tenderloin) on such a successful restaurant dish.  Our versions and approaches were very different, but they both resulted in amazing products.  Thank you to Mary Sue, Susan, and the Border Grill for a wonderful dinner and the chance to continue the fun at home!

By the way, that last picture is what my plate looked like at the end of my meal at the Border Grill.  "Oh my God!" the waiter exclaimed when he came to clear the plates.  "I'm sorry," he stammered, "But it's just that I've only seen 2 or 3 people finish it... and none of them look like you."  Haha!  So good!  And it had been a long day of walking!

Border Grill, Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas: http://www.mandalaybay.com/dining/border-grill/

Dining by Design (Vegas Edition Part 1!): Fleur by Hubert Keller

Ahi Tuna Tacos

Getting to Vegas has been a dream of mine for a long time: food, shows, dancing, sunshine... fun!  When two college friends that I had not seen in over a year invited me to join them for a weekend there, I quickly jumped at the chance.  I had missed them so much and the destination sounded perfect.  I realized as I packed that I was probably destined to get to Vegas at some point; I was suprised at just how many items in my closet were bedazzled, pink, or sparkley :).

One of my friends is a Vegas veteran and took care of planning the weekend for us (or as much as you can "plan" in Vegas.)  At the risk of stepping on her toes, I told her I had one demand: that we eat at Fleur by Hubert Keller at some point on the trip.  I promised to go along with anything else they all devised so long as I could live out a foodie fantasy.  They graciously agreed despite their general indifference to the culinary world and our humble budgets.  (Which I love you all for... thanks, girlies!)

One of my friends and I ordered the ahi tuna tacos.  I had seen them recommended in several reviews of the restaurant, and the waiter told us they were one of the most popular items.  The majority of Fleur's menu consists of "small plates," but we were surprised at just how small the tacos themselves were.  (The picture at the beginning of the post makes them seem deceptively large).  The bites were tasty though.  The serrano chili gave each taco an especially spicy kick at the end that packed a punch.  The touch of avocado cream was refreshing relief from the pepper and the tuna itself was pink, fresh, and lightly salted.  Overall, I would characterize the dish as "expected."  It was delicious to be sure, but I felt as though I had seen the presentation and experienced the flavor profile multiple times before.  I can certainly see why it is one of the "most popular" selections.  For the typical Vegas diner, it is highly accessible and easily understood.

Foie gras

For my second small plate, I decided to try something more gourmet.  I ordered the seared foie gras... which I am embarassed to admit was the first foie gras of my life!  I confess that I really wanted the foie gras torchon, which came with elderflower foam, but the server told me they were out of it that night.  I was slightly disappointed and do still wonder what that elderflower foam would have tasted like, but the seared foie gras proved to be a viable substitute.  The foie gras itself was cooked perfectly (or as far as I could tell being a foie gras newbie!) I loved the taste and will certainly be ordering foie gras in the future.

I have mixed feelings about the components of the dish itself.  I did love the pickled shitake mushrooms.  I have a slight obsession with pickling things (see my last post where I coveted the pickled cherries at Colicchio & Sons) and this was my first encounter with pickled mushrooms.  The earthiness of mushrooms certainly make them an appropriate choice for brine.  I didn't quite understand the three small piles of pineapple on the rim of the plate though.  Was I supposed to eat the pineapple alone? Add it to my fork?  Mix it with the sauce?  I ultimately used it as kind of a palate cleanser- eating it by itself between bites of the foie gras.  As for the sauce: it was sweet, rich, and pleasing on its own.  However, the foie gras and mushrooms came sitting in it, so some bites were saturated in it and overwhelmed by it as a result.  I would have liked it more if there was less sauce in the bowl, or if it had been more seperate from the foie gras and mushrooms.

Of all of the small plates sampled that night, I would give the crown to a dish one of my friends ordered: the ceci frito, or fried chickpeas.  At only $3 and with such a simple name, it could easily be overlooked.  This seemingly humble small plate turned out to be generous in portion and remarkable in flavor.  The lightly crisp chickpeas tasted of smokiness and spice.  I think it is a must have when dining at Fleur, and at that price there's really no reason not to order it.

Then came to dessert.  And all I have to say is OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD OH MY GOD!!!  For those of you still reading at this point, strap in because I'm totally going to geek out.  I ordered the "pineapple carpaccio" which came with lime sorbet and cilantro granite.  THE CILANTRO GRANITE WAS THE GREATEST THING I HAVE EVER TASTED.  It looked kind of odd... a pile of green flakes sitting under some sorbet... but it was amazing!!  It had the spice of cilantro, a touch of sweetness from sugar, and an icy frozen finish.

Pineapple carpaccio with cilantro granite (the green component at right)

Have you ever played the game "Do you want to buy a duck?"  For those of you who have never been to summer camp... it's a circle game where a person turns to the person next to him and has the following conversation: "Do you want to buy a duck?"  "A what?"  "A duck."  "Does it quack?"  "Of course it quacks."  This goes around the entire circle.  Well, a variation of this game went around our circular table with the debut of the cilantro granite.  It started with me turning to my friend and went as follows:

Me: "You have to try this!"
Her: "What the hell is that?  It looks crazy!  No!"
Me: "Seriously."
Her: "Ok... OH MY GOD. THAT IS AMAZING! WHAT IS THAT?"

And then she turned to the person next to her and assumed my lines.  The person next to her protested as she did following almost the same script, but had the same wonderful epiphany.  And it went all the way around the table until we got back to me and everyone wanted my cilantro granite.  We all agreed that we would have eaten bowls and bowls of it by itself, but it was even better with the other parts of the dish: the lime sorbet and the thinly shaved pieces of pineapple.

(Question to Hubert Keller: I noticed that the oyster small plate comes with a "margarita sorbet."  Is there a difference between the margarita sorbet and the lime sorbet?")

It has been a few days since I came back from Vegas, and I can still not stop thinking about that cilantro granite.  I am so obsessed that I attempted to make my own today, but that's not exactly the kind of thing that has recipes available... or really any mention in the google-sphere.  I wound up blanching some cilantro, mincing it, soaking it in a simple sugar that I made, straining it, and freezing it.  It tasted OK but was nothing like what I experienced at Fleur.  (And now my hands reek of cilantro haha.)

At the end of our meal, I got the chance to meet the one and only Hubert Keller, the Top Chef Master himself.  I thanked him for the meal and dorked out a little bit when I told him I was a huge fan, a foodie, and a recreational cook who looked up to him.  He graciously posed for a picture (and even signed a piece of napkin that I could affix to my coveted chef's jacket when I got home haha).

Chef Hubert Keller and Me

I certainly enjoyed the meal and even my non-foodie friends frequently remarked on how exceptional it was throughout our vacation.  I left with a full stomach... and a newfound craving for cilantro granite.

Fleur by Hubert Keller

Located at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas, Nevada

Reserve Online (website below) or call 702.632.7200

http://www.mandalaybay.com/dining/fleur/

Wine-ings: Insolia-Grecanico Ramí COS 2009 Sicily Italy

On Friday night, I got to see the love of my life again... and by "love of my life" I'm referring to New York City, epicenter of my universe.  I went in to celebrate a belated Father's Day and the end of a school year with a dinner at Colicchio & Sons followed by the play Food and Fadwa.  (The play was SPECTACULAR.  For more information about it, please see the end of the post.)

Duck confit with pickled cherries, haricot verts, and polenta

Colicchio & Sons was amazing- as always!  The meal began with freshly made sesame bread bread that is baked on premises and served warm.  (I try not to dig into the bread baskets at restaurants to save room for dinner, but at Colicchio & Sons I can't help but go back for seconds... so good!) As an appetizer, I ordered a radish salad with bacon bits and sherry vinaigrette.  My entree was a duck confit with pickled cherries and haricot verts.  Every time I visit, C&S is pickling something new: watermelon, radishes, cherries.... The cherries were a nice accent.  The bitterness of the brine balanced the sweet cherry, making it appropriate for a main meat dish.  For dessert I had Stephen's cookie jar and a side of caramel popcorn.  Yum!

Insolia-Grecanic Rami 2009

Although everything about the meal was memorable, the wine was the true discovery of the evening.  I ordered something I had never had before, a wine listed as "Insolia-Grecanic Rami COS 2009 Sicily Italy."  I have tried numerous wines and varietals, but I confess I was unfamiliar with Insolia and Grecanic.  The wine's color was truly unique; it could have been mistaken for a mead.  It was a rich golden brown.  At first glance the server described it as "straw," but we all agreed it was more complex than that.  It certainly had honey tones.

*Side note from a dork: I am in the process of settling into a new apartment.  As a result, I happen to have Sherwin Williams paint samples in front of me.  If memory serves, the wine is like a SW 6677 a.k.a. Goldenrod, but it was a few days ago and this is a piece of cardboard paint sample I'm looking at... haha

The taste was indescribable, but I'll try!  The flavor crept on me.  At first, it tasted like a thick water... then whoa!  There was nothing fruity or sweet about it.  Nothing grassy or herbal either.  It was stone.  And nut.  And earth.  Some internet searches revealed that the wine is aged in conrete and fermented in cement.  That certainly accounts for the distinct taste!  I was- and still am- bewildered in a good way.  I would not call it run of the mill or easy drinking, but it certainly left an impression.  I am always on the quest for unique wines.  I kind of loved it.

After describing the Rami to a friend of mine, he guided me to a Satrico 2010 Lazio Bianco for comparison.  It's 34% Chardonnay, 33% Sauvignon, and 33% Trebbiano Giallo.  While it was tasty, it was only a bit reminiscent of the Rami.  To get the Rami from that bottle, you would have to darken the color, strip away the sweetness (there's not much in the Satrico, but you'd have to do away with it all), and amp up all of the minteral/earthy notes that hit you at the end.

Open note to Colicchio & Sons: Please keep a bottle of the Rami on hand for when I'm in next!  I'm still trying to wrap my head around it... in a good way... and it will take at least one more visit before I figure out what all that complexity is!

The cookie jar... complete with a special message!

Caramel popcorn

And now for notes on the play...
Meet Fadwa Faranesh, an unmarried, 30-something Palestinian woman
living in Bethlehem in the politically volatile West Bank. Known for her
delectable cooking and deep-seated sense of duty to her family and aging father, our kitchen maven insists on continuing the preparations for the
wedding of her younger sister, despite constraints of daily life under
occupation. Politics blend with family tensions to create a sometimes
humorous and sometimes heartbreaking meal. Story by Lameece Issaq
and Jacob Kader and directed by Shana Gold, this new play melds the
fight a Palestinian family wages to hold onto its traditional culture with its
need to celebrate love, joy and hope. NYTW teams up with company-in-residence Noor Theatre to present FOOD AND FADWA.
http://www.nytw.org/food_and_fadwa_info.asp

Dining by Design: Fishtail by David Burke

When life hands you lemons... run away to New York city?!

After a particularly difficult couple of days, I decided to get my happy back by visiting my favorite place on earth... New York City.  My plan was simple: behold the diamonds at Tiffany's.  Find a sunny rock in Central Park where I could lay back and read a good book.  Get a little work done at the Starbuck's in the Trump Tower.  Try on some sparkly headbands at Bendel's.  And have drinks and appetizers at the end of the day at a good restaurant.  I selected Fishtail by David Burke, a favorite of mine and a place where I knew I could get some much-needed fun and relief.  (I also won some facebook contests there recently!)

Fishtail has two sections: an upstairs dining room and a downstairs that serves as a bar/late night area.  The downstairs has the seats at the bar, a corner table, and several booths complete with cushioned seats, candles, and fluffy pillows.  The downstairs was what drew me to Fishtail on that  night.  I wanted somewhere I could have a sophisticated, yet somewhat intimate and casual experience.  Someplace I could fly under the radar in a chic setting.  Many restaurants blend the regular dining space with the bar, but Fishtail's two levels give it a whole different vibe.

In keeping with the theme of the day, "getting my happy back," I ordered a cocktail named "habitual happiness."  The drink is a blend of St. germain, cointreau, rose water, prosecco, and wild hibiscus flower.  The Middle Eastern studies major in me found this appealing.  I'm not sure if the eclectic American chef intended it to be a throwback to my visits to Egypt and Dubai, but the rose water and hibiscus flavors brought me back there instantly.  The cocktail was the perfect combination of sugar, florals, and acidity.  It had fruity qualities, but the drier prosecco and carbonation balanced the sweetness.  It was refreshing and had a slightly feminine touch... perfection for me :)!

As an appetizer, I ordered the shrimp roll.  "Shrimp roll" sounds traditional and simple, but anyone aquainted with David Burke knows that is never the case.  This shrimp roll came with pinapple inside and a side of lemon harissa.  The ratio of pinapple to shrimp was wonderful: a sweet kick without consuming the palate.  The lemon harissa was a great touch and added spice and acid to the protein and fruit.  (Side note to David Burke: Between the harissa and the cocktail, have you been journeying into the Middle East lately?)

That was what I ordered... but the meal was far from over!!!  The crew had remembered my facebook wins and were sooo kind!!  (Maybe they and/or the universe had also sensed my need for some enjoyment....)  Joel and the general manager Peter, made the experience extra-special by serving us additional David Burke specialities!  The first dish to arrive, the pretzel crusted crab cake, turned out to be my favorite of the entire evening.  Again, the phrase "pretzel-crusted" is deceptively simple.  What we got was not pretzel crumbs over a protein and fried, but actual pretzel sticks on top of delicious crab!  The crab meat was almost pure... not oven-fried or mixed with mayonaisse beyond recognition.  I love salt, and the pretzels gave the appetizer a slightly salty profile that I enjoyed.  The presentation resembled a small raft... so cute :)! 

Pastrami salmon

We also recieved the Burke interpretation of smoked salmon.  The creative twist on this dish was pastrami.  They disguise it on the underside of the salmon, so the pastrami taste hits you as an unexpected suprise at the end of the bite.  The dish comes with potato cakes and horseradish creme fraiche.

I guess the kitchen got the memo that one of my mottos in life is "Life is short... eat dessert first!" because they brought us cheesecake lollipops.  My date (a.k.a. my dad, who has an office in NYC!) pretty much devoured those, but it was all good because I'd saved my "dessert pocket" for the David Burke peanut brittle that they place on the counter instead of those silly after-dinner mints.  ("Dessert pocket is a term I coined at age 2.  Apparently when I used to eat a lot at dinner and still request dessert, I would tell my protesting mother that I had a "dessert pocket" reserved exclusively for dessert that never got full from dinner.)  Yummmm!!!

The night was exceptional in all regards.  The crew was so nice and generous.  The food was both creative and delicious!  I left the restaurant with a full belly... and my HAPPY BACK :)!

Cheesecake lollipops: Bubble gum (front) and chocolate (back)

Fishtail by David Burke
135 East 62nd Street
(Park & Lexington Avenues)
New York, NY 10065
http://www.fishtail.db.com
Phone: 212.754.1300

Dining by Design: The Great Googa Mooga!

People line up for food at the Great Googa Mooga

"What the heck is googa?!" my confused friend asked after I relayed my Sunday plans.  "Googa Mooga," I answered.  Based on the look on his face, I realized that I had just made the whole thing sound even crazier.

A month ago I was just as clueless as he was.  When I first heard the word, I had no idea what the strange cacophony referred to.  It turns out that "The Great Googa Mooga" is a festival in Brooklyn, New York that ushers in the summer season.  Rockers and chefs collide to offer a unique experience for foodies, fans, and people looking to spend the day in Prospect Park.  Think Woodstock meets Food & Wine Classic.  Hippies meet Locavores.  Awesome meets even more awesome.  (And even though I was still rocking my boot and getting over my fractured heel, I wasn't about to miss it!)

This year, Googa Mooga featured over 75 food vendors from quality New York City restaurants.  Two Tom Colicchio restaurants, Colicchio & Sons and Craft, drew enormous crowds. Culinary heavyweights Marcus Samuelsson and Daniel Boulud also had booths from Red Rooster and DBGB respectively.  The food lines grew to epic lengths as the day progressed.  My plan was simple: hit all of the best places and consume the most food upon arrival.  Some may percieve me as a small girl, but I love food and have confidence in the capacity of my stomach :).  So I set to work.

Pork belly taco and spicy watermelon juice from Colicchio & Sons

The first thing I tried, and my favorite dish of the entire day, was the pork belly taco from Colicchio & Sons.  The outer tortilla was perfectly crisp.  It also made the dish portable, a crucial detail in the festival setting.  The pork belly was succulent, moist, and warm.  On a hot day, the warm protein could have been off-putting.  However, Colicchio & Sons artfully counter-balanced the pork with shredded cabbage.  It provided texture and instant refreshment.  C&S served a "spicy watermelon juice" with the taco.  The iced beverage had a slight jalapeno kick.  Summertime perfection.

What amazed me most about the C&S booth though was how hardworking the crew was.  It was an all-hands-on-deck effort; I recognized the faces of the manager and the Food & Wine nominated pastry chef enthusiastically handing out tacos to the crowd.  Tom himself even made an appearance- a highlight of my day!  Although he was only scheduled for a demo in the special area of the festival, Extra Googa, he still jumped in with his crew and got his hands dirty cooking with them.  I have no idea how they kept it up all day!

Tom Colicchio takes time to talk to a dorky fan... me :)

Plantains at El Olomega Pupusas

I got the chance to taste some other dishes that morning, including the Dirty Duck Dog at Craft and plantain chips from Red Hook's El Olomega Pupusas.  Both were good.  And I always save room for dessert!  I paid a visit to legendary Momofuku Milk Bar for birthday cake truffles and a cornflake marshmellow cookie.  The birthday cake truffles were A-MA-ZING.  Momofuku served them cold too, so it was like eating cool cookie dough on a hot summer day.  Forget the concept of "birthday"...you don't need a special occassion to partake!

As you know, I am an avid fan of wine.  I certainly enjoy drinking it, but I mostly like approaching it from an educational perspective.  The nerd in me loves learning about the idiosyncrasies of the regions, varietals, and winemakers.  Googa Mooga was the perfect setting for that.  They had a large tent devoted to wines with representatives ready to pour tastes or glasses of high quality bottles.  I went for the tasting option so that I could explore wines I might not encounter otherwise.  One of my favorites was a Chardonney from Scribe.  The Chardonney was fermented in its skins.  Usually skin imparts the red color to red wines, but in this case that was avoided.  The wine retained the character of the skins, but the light familiarity of Chardonney.

After what I experienced, I can officially say that Googa Mooga is the Mecca of the NYC food world.  And I will certainly be making by haaj again next year :)!

For more information, visit the website: http://www.googamooga.com/about/

Dining By Design and Cooking Creations: Barcelona Spring Tapas with Mommy Couture *Special Guest Blog*



Bartender DJ and Chef Scott

This past Saturday afternoon (April 28^th) I had the good fortune to substitute for my injured foodie daughter as a student at Barcelona’s “Spring Tapas” cooking class.

We students were greeted by Bartender DJ, who offered us a cocktail invented earlier that day and as yet unnamed.  Concocted from G’Vine Gin, other spirits, and accented with fresh mint leaves, this refreshing beverage proved the perfect starting point for our celebration of spring flavors.  Throughout the afternoon DJ also offered us white (Alborino) and red (Sangiovese) wine.



Once all the students had arrived and gathered at the beautifully set bar, we were ushered into the kitchen by Chef Scott, who began our lesson with “simple” crostinis.  (Note:  while all these dishes are likely “simple” for chefs like Scott and foodies like my daughter, I was amazed at the steps and artistry that went into each dish.)  Scott began by offering us samples of ramps he had already pickled, then showing us how to “cook down” the tops of the ramps over medium heat with olive oil.  He then assembled the final dish in layers -- from bottom to top: a toasted crostini, a thin slice of pungent “cana de oreja” goat cheese, the ramps tops, olive oil and spices, and the pickled ramps – and passed it around for our enjoyment.  Our class size of five students in total allowed for wonderful “up close and personal” interaction with Scott, the food, and each other throughout the afternoon.

Scott also took us through preparation of two more dishes:  asparagus topped with spring vegetables and a sunny sideup fresh farm egg, and a warm fiddlehead fern salad with spicy meat and more spring vegetables.  In the process, he deftly and engagingly showed us how to get to the heart of an artichoke.  And throughout our time in the kitchen, there was fun and lively conversation about food in general, cooking techniques, and good sources for buying fresh springtime ingredients, like the Tarry Market in Port Chester and Grade A in Shippan. Scott is fortunate to also have local contacts who bring some of the more obscure products right to him at the restaurant.

The last phase of the afternoon took place back out at the bar, where we were served the delicious dishes we had watched Scott prepare, along with an incredible gnocchi dish and fresh bread to round out the meal.  I loved every minute of the entire event, even with my somewhat limited food/cooking expertise.  For anyone more knowledgeable, I’m sure the experience would be even better and richer.

 Please visit the Barcelona calendar for information on upcoming cooking classes and events at: http://www.barcelonawinebar.com/calendar.htm

Cooking Creations: JW BBQ

I love to barbeque!  Our condominium has a smaller-sized, wooden deck, but that never prevents me from cramming friends and family outside around the grill.  (If you'd like a visual: one must place the grill strategically.  If it's too close to one side it burns the wooden fence and if it's too close to the other it gets the side of the house.  There's no extra space to negotiate in- only one specific spot will do.)  If all that doesn't stand in my way, there's no way I was going to let a fractured heel deter me.  Spring-like weather signifies the beginning of bbq season.  End of story.

Salsa verde

I wanted to cook another meal from Jonathan Waxman's Italian My Way, but with a BBQ spin.  I decided to prepare two of his signature sauces: the salsa verde and the JW roasted tomato sauce.  I chose to serve them alongside some chicken off the grill.

My dad graciously took care of the fire.  Normally I would do that all myself too, but that was hardly safe while balanced on one foot.  He did, however, position a chair next to the grill so that I could monitor and grill the chicken myself.  I was at the mercy of the wind since I could not reposition myself when it blew the smoke in my direction, but I didn't really mind.  I am a savant of grilled chicken breasts.  I don't brag about much and there's little I'm completely confident in, but I will stake my pride on perfectly cooked grilled chicken.  I use wood chips- in this case Jack Daniel smoked chips.  I prefer hickory chips, but those were the ones on hand.  We have a charcoal grill (and in my opinion that's the only way to BBQ!).  For chicken, aim for 5-6 minutes a side.  Another tip: lie the breast so that the long way is perpendicular to the metal grill slots.  That way you get the pretty brown lines on them!

The salsa verde was a doozy to prepare.  I don't want to give away the recipe itself, but I'll give you the general premise.  It requires many fresh greens: chives, basil, rosemary, arugala, sage, and tarragon.  If you've got an herb garden you're good to go, but if not that can run up the grocery bill.  You also add capers.  And anchovies.  Which is where my struggle began.

Jonathan Waxman's recipe instructed me to debone the anchovies with tweezers.  It sounded simple, but there were a lot of little bones in those anchovies!  I sat there for at least a half an hour trying to debone 4 tiny anchovies.  It's possible that I did not have to take out all of the bones I did; some were so tiny that they probably would have been undetectable by the time they were ground into the salsa.  It's also possible that there's a way to debone them that is faster (such as going in a particular direction).  In any event, it wound up taking a lot longer than anticipated and dinner got started later than intended.  I have reached out to Chef Waxman via twitter to see if he has any suggestions, but so far I have yet to get a reply.  In any event, the salsa verde was a crowd-pleaser.  It seemed to be worth the extra time!

JW roasted tomato sauce

(PS. You may not tell my father there are anchovies in the salsa verde!!  He loves the salsa verde, but will swear up and down that he hates anchovies.  I'd rather not give him a heart attack or have him stop eating the salsa verde, so I have been disguising the truth.)

The roasted tomato sauce is super cool- it uses lavender!  Although I have seen many chefs use lavender, I have never incorporated it.  Now that I have, it is my new culinary obsession.  It is a dream for wine-pairing!  It wil highlight the floral notes of so many spring and summer whites.  (For example, I cannot wait to try it with my new Ermita de San Felices Rioja Blanco 2010).  It was delicious in the sauce.

It is important to note that Chef Waxman's recipe calls for 2 lavender sprigs.  I purchased dried French lavender from Williams Sonoma.  There were no conversions available for those quantities online, so here is what I found.  I guestimated (based on other herb sprigs) that 2 lavender springs would yield about 1 tablespoon of fresh lavender.  Websites could make a fresh to dry conversion: 1/3 units dried = 1 unit fresh.  So I wound up using 1 teaspoon of dried French lavender.  In my opinion it was the perfect amount.  It certainly imparted the floral flavor, but did not overwhelm the sauce.  This sauce is what I put on my chicken!

Bowtie pasta

My dad ate all of the remaining salsa verde with a spoon.  He loves that stuff.  Although I heaped the tomato sauce on my chicken multiple times, there was some leftover.  My mother and I decided to make new dishes the next night with the sauce.  We each made our own unique dishes based on our personal taste preferences.  She likes pasta so she heated up some bowtie pasta and used the sauce on top.  (I also suspect that our respective choices had a lot to do with our cooking skills.  Let's be honest: her meal ultimately only required her to boil water.  Love you, Mom!)

My shrimp "scampi"

I am not a pasta fan.  I do, however, love the shrimp on top of shrimp scampi.  I did a pastaless rift on shrimp scampi.  I sauteed the shrimp and added the tomato sauce, shallots, a bit more garlic, an assortment of the leftover herbs, and capers.  The rough recipe is as follow:  Spray large non-stick skiller with cooking spray.  Sautee shallots until just tender.  Add the garlic and cook 1 minute.  Add shrimp and cook for 2 minutes.  Flip shrimp.  Add desired sauce, herbs, and capers.  Simmer for 2 more minutes (or until shrimp are done), stirring frequently.  Simple, but yummy.

BBQ season has officially arrived.

Since posting this, I did hear from Jonathan Waxman via twitter. When it comes to the anchovies: Literally just yank off the filets, the bones will not stick. Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks, chef!