Cuisine Couture Kuwait: An Inside Look

After some consideration, I decided that my latest Cuisine Couture adventures should take the form of a more candid, personal blog rather than more formal reviews. My last post was more analytic; I took an observation, crafted a thesis, and came up with reasons to explain it. However, there is nothing analytic about the way this experience has unfolded! I took the job on a whim and have found myself on the other side of the world. It would be more fun for me- and more fun for you- if I honor that spontaneity and keep you updated on day to day occurences.

Admittedly, the restaurant is keeping me extremely busy! My usual day consists of a wake-up call around 10:30 so I can fit in a brief stint at the teeny hotel “gym.” The car picks us up for the restaurant between 12 and 1 pm. Then, it’s pretty much nonstop action. With the exception of Sundays, the equivalent to Monday in the US (first day of the workweek and school) the crowd converges right at lunchtime, roughly 2pm. It lasts steadily with a brief lull in the afternoon, which in Kuwait is between 6:30 and 8. At 8 dinner hits and doesn’t let up until 11pm. Our driver picks us up at 11 or 11:30pm and we’re back at the hotel around 12am. By the time I get ready for the next day, prepare for bed, and get caught up on my emails and Skyping, it’s about 2am. All things considered, I do not know how frequent my blog will be. However, I aspire to keep you posted at least once a week. I have not had any days off yet and may not for some time, but when I do that should give me more flexibility. (The restaurant is still in its opening stages and it is important that all of the managers be present each day in the weeks t come until we know it can function completely on its own.)

So what is Figs Kuwait all about? If you’ve been to the Figs in Boston, this Figs would probably take you by surprise. The décor stands in staunch contrast. While the Boston figs feels intimate, cozy, and snug, the Kuwait Figs in the Avenues mall proves large, sleek, and sexy. The restaurant name glows in purple neon lights against a backdrop of black textured walls. Inside round leather chairs surround dark wooden tables. The dim mood lighting is reminiscent of modern New York clubs. An “outdoor patio” overlooks the mall below. The formidable mall boasts large palm trees, dangling lights, and a format made to look like city streets.

The food mantains signature Todd English elements. The Kuwait location has the same types of offerings as the original: starters, pizzas, pastas, and mains. Many of the staples are present such as the Oliver’s pizza, Bronx Bomber, and Isabella’s. By name, many of the dishes overlap. At the same time, the cuisine diverges from the American plates in important ways. For one thing, Figs Kuwait has created several new dishes to cater to a Middle Eastern clientele like zaatar vinaigrette and a mezze platter. In addition, the Kuwait kitchen has to factor in limitations imposed by the country. Alchohol must be omitted entirely. It is not used in the cooking and the restaurant has an extensive list of “mocktails” in leiu of a beverage list. Pork cannot be included either. The famous “Fig and Prosciutto Pizza” has been replaced with the “Fig and Bresola,” another type of cured meat.

Most evident, however, is the difference in overall preparation and flavors. The Middle Eastern palate favors extremes: extreme creaminess, sweetness, and richness. Copious amounts of honey are added to agrodolces and sauces. Pastas are saturated in thick, heavy sauces. Also, meat almost always is prepared well done. I have seen numerous dishes that would have been considered a beautiful medium sent back to the kitchen as rare. I ordered a burger medium rare and the chef on duty almost had a heart attack. I would not want to pass judgment on another culture’s taste, but I will say that the difference has been a little bit of a shock to my system. I have become accustomed to a careful balance of flavors and this milieu seems to take the direct opposite approach.

I have an interesting role within the restaurant itself. There were two other Americans here when I arrived. They came as part of an “opening team” appointed by Todd English and scheduled to stay for a shorter time frame, about a month. I, on the other hand, have signed with the Middle Eastern restaurant group that partnered with Todd English to produce the franchise. I work closely with the Americans and share their resources for now, but I will stay on for months to come. The man whose position I filled, Guests Relations manager, already left and the American chef is leaving within the week. Then, I will be on my own!

I alluded to my title: Guest Relations Manager. This is a title they created for me and my exact duties are ambiguous, flexible, and evolving. My American counterpart first explained my job to me as the “American ambassador.” The company benefits from an American face promoting the restaurant, welcoming guests, and checking in on them to heighten their dining experiences. I have some mixed opinions about this in some respects. On the other hand, it puts me in the unique position to place myself in every part of the restaurant. I am on the floor all the time so I get to observe everything that goes on around me. I check in with the guests in the front, organize the servers on the floor, and communicate with the kitchen crew in the back. As a manager, I also have access to the upstairs office and get to see the restaurant logistical operations unfold. Since this is my first official restaurant gig, I am enjoying this vantage point. Had I been tasked with a more intense, specialized position I would not get to be everywhere at once.

My role gives me an opportunity for constant growth as well. The corporation knows that my goal is to learn as much as possible and challenge myself. The restaurant is still in its early stages, but as it grows I am gaining more responsibilities. For example, today I got organize and implement the entire waiting list. To an outsider it may seem like a meaningless feat. In reality, I was keeping track of a slew of things at once. I felt challenged. It was such a surge of adrenaline and the feeling of success w
when the hours of work were over proved exhilarating.

Another major perk is that I get to observe and learn from experienced, talented individuals around me. The American chef appreciates my culinary passions and has been trying to let me see as much as possible. He has taught me several important lessons like the importance of tasting everything. Even if you try a dish one day, you should check back on it a few days later to make sure the kitchen is still executing it correctly. And a taste doesn’t mean finishing it; a single bite as it comes off the line can make or break a guest’s experience. He also reminds me to “walk not run.” As passionate as I am, I need to respect the seasoned professionals around me. I can learn more from standing back and watching them than trying to jump in prematurely.

I have tried many items on the menu and will give you more specific culinary notes in subsequent entries. For now, that is a rundown on the world I have found myself in!

Go FIGure!

Kuwaiti Kouture 1: Change for the Better?

Marhaba!
Or “welcome!” Welcome to the Kuwaiti version of Cuisine Couture . I can’t believe it’s already Saturday! Between jet lag, long restaurant shifts, and a new meal schedule I seem to have lost all sense of time and space.

This new adventure is turning out to be incredibly exciting. The shift to the restaurant business would be a huge transition and great learning experience under regular conditions, but the fact that this is all taking place in the Middle East adds an additional component. There are new sets of customs, expectations, and rules governing everything from social interaction to business to dining.

In the United States it is not uncommon to see “no substitutions” enblazened across the tops of menus. Even if it is not explicitly announced, waiters’ eye-rolls and sighs serve as deterrents for making menu changes. I even encounter resistance when I ask for alterations based on my food sensitivities.
Such limitations would be considered ludicrous in Kuwait. Customer requests are frequent and sometimes call for significant changes. From the first day, I was informed that the goal is always to accommodate them. The chefs continuously adjust the food; they substitute sauces, types of pasta, and side dishes. If a guest complains that the way a dish is prepared does not suit them, it will be returned even if the kitchen considers it perfectly cooked. The appeasements even extend to the seating. Tables will be pushed together and even carried from one part of the restaurant to another depending on where the clients want to sit.
I have pondered why the mentalities prove so different. I think that several factors contribute to the contrast between the US and here. First, competition here is fierce, especially in the mall. Restaurants are literally wall to wall and on top of one another. Without alcohol and an entertainment scene, dining is the main event and restaurants truly are everywhere. If a restaurant is unwilling to meet all of a guest’s demands they will simply go next door. In New York City, a restaurant change may require a walk or a trip on the subway.

Next, the dishes served are more static and formulaic. All of the ingredients have to be imported so one once a menu is established there tends to be little change. As a result, the chefs have memorized the make-up of each plate is pretty much engrained in a chef’s head. In New England, on the other hand, offerings come and go with the seasons. Vegetables are on constant rotations and proteins depend on what meat looked best on the market. Therefore, there is less time to thoroughly learn a dish. If a chef is less familiar with a dish or has had less practice with it, it might be harder to make additional amendments to it.

Furthermore, the United States dining scene is comprised of people from all classes and walks of life. While I hate to admit it, I have seen restaurants take incredible care of “high rollers” while leaving more ordinary diners to fend for themselves. In some establishments a wealthy or frequent patron will have their requests catered to while a more humble guest may be overlooked. In Kuwait, however, pretty much all guests are “high rollers.” By the time one is out at the largest shopping mall perusing dining options, it is assumed that they are “someone.” Patrons tend to be members of the “elite” and it is in a restaurant’s best interest to provide exceptional service.

Finally, while alterations may be rampant here, they are not as meticulous as they are at home. I feel bad for the level of detail involved in my requests. When I ask for no dairy, the chef may have to change the preparation entirely or leave out several ingredients (milk, butter, cheese) to accommodate my single request. That’s only the tip of the iceberg. Don’t forget about other needs: gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, etc. Here, I have yet to see sensitivities and specialized diets. Substitutions involve substitutions or omissions rather than technical transformation.

Thus concludes my first culinary-cultural analysis. I have yet to formulate an opinion on the matter; both systems have their pros and cons. These are merely my humble observations and interpretations on what I have observed so far. Take them as you will… more to come .

Dining by Design: Full Circle with Fishtail

Dessert heaven! Cheesecake lollipops & tart

“We need to make plans for the next few week before you leave,” one of my colleagues told me yesterday.

“Weeks?” I asked, bewildered.  As I started to do the math in my head, I realized that I have less than two weeks at my current job.  I’ll literally be on a plane at the end of the month.  I am sure I will be back in the future, but my stay right now is indefinite; I will keep on chasing my dreams as long as the doors of opportunity keep opening.  With so little time remaining, I have been trying to make it a point to see the people I love and visit the places I adore before taking off.

It seems that David Burke’s Fishtail embodies my journey over the past year.  This has been a time of wild transition: moving out of my childhood home, having my parents move to a different state, beginning teaching, struggling to find a job in the economy, and now a radical career change.  Somehow, it seems that all of these roads have intersected at Fishtail.  The night before I was offered my first high school job, I was sitting in Fishtail with my father seriously discussing the future.  On another occasion, I picked up a catalog of Gotham’s Writer’s Workshop classes from the dispenser outside the restaurant.  That reengaged me with the world of food writing and helped steer me toward CTBites.  It therefore felt fitting to have one of my final forays into the city unfold there.

Two friends from college and I met for night of festivities on Monday night.  I am so fortunate to have these two ladies in my life; we became fast friends in college and maintained our friendship despite time and distance.  Ironically, I met both in different parts of my college experience; one comes from English courses and the other from freshman orientation.   But we still get along harmoniously and make a great team.

When we arrived, we received an amuse from the kitchen, a delicious play on an egg roll.  Next, we ordered flutes of the Habitual Happiness, a drink I have often blogged about.  It is one of my favorites on the menu and contains elderflower liquor, prossecco, lavender, and a hibiscus flower.  However, we made another incredible discovery on the drinks list.  I am not usually a fan of Pinot Noir, but I decided to try a taste of David Burke’s own version: House of Burke Pinot Noir.  It was spectacular!  It was round overall, but had a mild touch of tannin that interacted with the notes of smoke and pepper.  The notes were deeper than the Pinots I usually shy away from.  There were dark fruits woven with tufts of smoke and chocolate.  I highly recommend it, and would certainly order it again.

Escargot

Next, we ordered the escargot appetizer.  I am ashamed to admit that I have never had escargot before, but it has been on my bucket list!  As an adventurous eater and a foodie, escargot is a must!  The preparation proved delectable.  A sauce with hints of lemon grass and garlic brought out the salty succulence of the snails.  A mix of herbs and crumbs gave it a slight texture.  First snail experience?  Roaring success!

A single serving of the whole bass

For dinner, we split a full sea bass.  We had planned to order one of Burke’s famous whole fresh fish, but the waiter’s descriptive, energetic description of the bass sold us on that particular variety.  The fish is stuffed with herbs and baked in banana leaves.  The method imparts those exciting flavors into the fish itself without masking the protein with thick sauces or spicy crusts.  The server presented the fish to us whole and then returned to the kitchen where he cut it up into individual servings.  It was savory and delicious, literally melting in my mouth and flaking slightly with the touch of my fork.

Apple tart

Cheesecake lollipops

No meal is complete without dessert, or, in our case, many desserts!!  We had the incredible chance to try multiple decadent offerings from the menu.  We ordered the can o’ cake, the dish responsible for hooking me on David Burke to begin with.  (A TV demo of the dish seemed to good to witness on a screen so I set out to try the creation in person a few years ago.)  All of the toppings are incredible, but my favorite are the rice pearls.  They add a slight crunch to the otherwise moist chocolate layers.  In addition, we received the apple tart.  I thoroughly enjoyed it.  Some tarts come across as overly sweet or employ artificial fruits.  Burke’s was anything but that.  Although we were in a sleek, modern restaurant, it maintained elements of rusticity.  It was driven by the apples themselves, some flour, and spices as opposed to copious amounts of sugar or filling.  Finally, we experienced David Burke’s cheesecake lollipops.  They come in three varieties: raspberry, tuxedo, and chocolate.  A bubble gum whipped cream accompanied them- and it did taste remarkably like bubblegum!!  The presentation alone makes this offering unmissable.

Our server adorns our can o cake tableside

The evening ended with the chance to speak with Chef Ed Cotton, a Top Chef finalist.  The conversation with him really gave me the extra push of confidence I needed to charge at this next chapter of my life full on.  Cotton previously worked for Todd English at the Massachusetts location of Figs.  He provided words of encouragement and a few pearls of advice.  I am always so struck my the generosity and collaboration between chefs.  I am a fledgling member of the food world, but Cotton and other chefs have graciously shared their knowledge with me.

Although one of David Burke’s claims to fame is his takeout operation entitled “Burke in a Box,” it seems that every trip to Fishtail has me thinking outside of the box.  It’s a place where I can consider my future objectively, but also have the courage to embrace the passions that propel me forward.

Furniture for Sale: What's on the Menu

Hello! In anticipation for my move, I am selling my furniture- and car! I just bought most of these items I August when I moved into my new apartment.  They're in great condition!  All of the prices are negotiable, although these prices are definitely fair.  I am not making any profits; in fact these prices are significantly lower (sometimes less than 50%) of what I got them for.  I would just need you to arrange transportation to get the items.  Cash preferred.  Send me an email if interested: demb8510@aol.com .

"Sonoma" Full Size Bed Frame, Bob's Furniture, $200
Purchased in August- almost new!  Beautiful dark wood goes in any space with subtle modern edging and designs
The link on the Bob's Website: http://www.mybobs.com/Sonoma.aspx

If you're interested in the mattress set (base, mattress, cover, etc) its all new from August!  It's Laura Ashley and very comfortable.  I'd sell that too- around $500- price negotiable.

Staples Office Chair- Brand New and Hardly Used! $75

Adjustable height, swivel feature, arm rests, VERY COMFY!

Toshiba TV, $100
If you want a DVD Player, we can talk about that too :)

Small shelves, $50
Adjustable shelf heights
48" high, 15" deep, 24.5" across
Hole in the back for media wires

Ikea Desk, $100

Long light wooden surface with adjustable legs

62.8" long, 31" deep, 28" high (currently)

Perfect for students!

You will see a plastic protector in the pictures- you can have that too

 

Purple Chair, New as of August and Barely Used, $75

Subtle golden sparkle woven in the fabric, black wooden legs for modern twist, subtle metal studs wrapped along the bottom... very cool, very COMFY!!

 

 

Large Bookshelves, $200



Beautifully crafted, durable, adjustable heights

Other items up for grabs: DVD player, printer







Cuisine Couture Takes Kuwait!

Hey everyone!

I have some exciting news! I have accepted a position as Guest Relations Manager for Todd English's latest branch of Figs Restaurant... in Kuwait! I can't believe that two seemingly disparate passions, the Middle East (I double-majored in Near Eastern Studies, with focus on Arabic) and the food world, are uniting in such an incredible way. This amazing opportunity came up suddenly and is progressing quickly; I leave in 30 days. While the

speed is crazy, it's awesome that I get to be there from the earliest stages of opening a restaurant.

Thank you to all of you who helped me now and over the years. Thank you to those of you who helped me with this process... to renegade resume creation missions to advising me on how to approach the restaurant world, to giving me the chance to write, to training me in the kitchen. And thank you to EVERYONE for supporting me, whether it was reading my blog or just blessing me with your friendship.

 

I am not sure how long I will be gone; I want to pursue every chance that comes my way. But I know that friendship transcends place and time, as they have in the past. I will keep you posted on my adventures!!  I certainly plan to keep up with CuisineCouture- just with a Middle Eastern touch!
 

Love, Emma 

 

 

Cooking Creations AND Dining by Design: Braising at Barcelona



Chef Scott Quis braises at Barcelona

I admit it: I'm a bit of a control freak.  I appreciate a level of routine and predictability.  If you go out to eat with me, you know that I pick the wine at dinner and the waiter presents it to me.  It's just one of things that falls under my jurisdiction.

As a result of this particular personality trait, I have lived in fear of braising.  Something about setting a dish aside to slow cook makes me uncomfortable, especially if it involves an expensive protein.  I'd rather it stayed underneath my watchful eye.  Fortunately, a cooking class at Barcelona Stamford helped me face my fear head on.

On Saturday January 19, Chef Scott Quis led a cooking class entitled "braising basics" that I enthusiastically signed up for as soon as I saw the announcement.  Quis has a remarkable pedigree.  He started in the kitchen at just fourteen years old and went on to study at the Culinary Institute of America.  He has another interesting claim to fame; he was Daniel Boulud's 1st intern.  Hard work and diligence helped him achieve the title of sous chef by twenty-two.  "It was fun, but hard when a lot of the crew was older," he reflected.  He credits visits to foreign countries with much of his growth as a chef.  "Travelling is most important," he told us.  He worked in Paris while with Boulud and made his way to Italy and Spain as well.


2006 Quieto from Argentina

The class began at 2:00 p.m., which provided for a more intimate, relaxed experience.  Since the restaurant was in between meals, participants got to congregate around the bar, speak to the servers and chef, and enter the kitchen freely.  As guests matriculated in, a personable server offered us drinks.  My friend and I chose a glass of 2006 Quieto, a red wine from Argentina.  The blend consists of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  While I am a huge Malbec fan, I am reluctant to order it in restaurants.  The wine can be very tannic and aggressive, and I have found that most restaurants serve Malbecs of this persuasion.  They tend to be young, commercial, and therefore astringent.  Barcelona defied all that.  The slight age conserved the pepper notes yet smoothed out some of the tannin.  The Cabernet Franc added a light zing to the otherwise robust varietal.  I would certainly order it again and consider it one of Barcelona's best reds by the glass.

Drinks in hand, Chef Scott led us into the kitchen.  I felt a bit like I was going backstage at a concert.  As a cook and longtime admirer of the cuisine at Barcelona, I relished in the idea of being privy to the behind the scenes magic.  I would finally get to see what the kitchen looked like, observe how they worked, and witness the conception of delicious plates.

Scott Quis chose two proteins for braising that afternoon: pork and lamb shank.  We squeezed into the kitchen and gathered around him.  He began by showing us a pig that had started out whole and had been broken down into four large parts, including the head.  The pigs come to Barcelona from Dartagnan in Vermont.  In high school, I spent the lab period devoted to pig dissection hiding out in the library, but somewhere throughout my cooking adventures I transitioned into someone who found the scene in front of me totally cool.


Lamb shanks browning

We then moved around the other side of the counter to the oven where he began the braising demonstration itself with the lamb.  For a revered, bustling restaurant, I was surprised by the relatively small kitchen.  It proved deceivingly narrow and the dancing flames from the stove made it toasty.  I wondered at how efficiently Scott and his crew floated around the limited space (while avoiding third degree burns)

The very first step in braising is to ensure the meat is dry.  Scott had a very large round pan set up on the gas stove and splashed enough oil in it to coat the bottom.  He then added the lamb shank and let them simmer in the oil until browned.  "You need to get it this color, at least," Scott noted.  "It gives the roasted flavor to the braise."  He seared all sides, sometimes propping them up on the side of the pan.

Browned lamb

As the lamb achieved its crisp golden color, Scott added large vegetables to the pan.  Carrots, onions, and celery are musts for braising, but he also added fennel.  The least moist vegetable, the carrots, go in first, followed by the onions, celery, and fennel.  It is important to use large chunks so that they have surface area to caramelize.  I was surprised to see that the vegetables had enough natural sugars to caramelize to that extent.  I have come to associate "caramelized" with the onions found on pub-style burgers and always assumed that copious amounts of residual sugar were needed.  Scott corrected this fallacy.

Scott points out a caramelized carrot

As the vegetables cook, it is important to remove the lamb as it finishes browning.  One must also keep an eye on the color of the braising liquid; if it becomes too dark, it acquires a bitter taste and cannot be used.  Scott stressed the importance of not salting the vegetables as well.  The salted meat provides the seasoning for the braise.  If one were to add salt to the vegetables, the salt would become overpowering as the liquid reduced.

Removed shanks

As the vegetables neared completion, Scott tossed in five heads of garlic, skin and all.  In addition, he chopped fresh kumato tomatoes into wedges and added them.  He let it all cook down until the tomatoes had almost disappeared.  He went on to add a blend of star anise, cinnamon stick, fennel seed, and coriander that he had prepared earlier with the help of a spice grinder.

Next, Scott placed the shanks back in along with a mix of water and stock, just enough to cover the meat.  He covered the shanks with circular parchment paper to submerge them.  Any meat protruding from the water would burn in the oven.  We waited until the pan began emitting slow, small bubbles.  Only then was it ready for braising.  We left it bubbling steadily at that rate until braised and tender.  To check to see if the meat is ready, you can stick it with a fork or a skewer.  When the meat slides off easily, it is probably done.


Separating the meat from the pig

As our final activity in the kitchen, we returned to the pig.  Scott lay the skin out and began separating the meat from the body.  As a seasoned pro, he removed the bones and cartilage quickly, which would have been a more difficult task for a pig newbie.  He then combined the protein with sweet and spicy pimenton, piquillo peppers, garlic, salt, sweet sherry vinegar, and olive oil.  He tightly bundled the entire mixture in saran wrap.  He explained that he would go on to place it in an ice bath, cool it down for about three hours, and serve it as "carpaccio" on a warm plate.

Rolling up the pig carpaccio

Finally, we had the chance to taste the spoils!  We assumed our positions around the bar and looked on in awe as James served us what Scott had just prepared, along with an extra risotto dish, family- style.  Food abounded; the dishes seemed bottomless and unending!  The lamb came out first, and the fact that I almost liked it speaks volumes to Scott's talents as a chef.  I'll spare you the gory details and say simply that I had a particularly traumatic experience with lamb during my first trip to Egypt.  It would take nothing short of amnesia to make me get over it, and this was the first time since I have enjoyed the taste and texture of the protein.  Next, James brought out the pork carpaccio.  It was my favorite dish of the afternoon.  The sweet, smokey flavor of the pimenton complimented the perfectly tender meat and lingered on my tongue.  A bed of arugula packed an extra punch of zest.

Carpaccio

I had the chance to speak more to Chef Scott about the techniques he employs and the ingredients he uses at Barcelona.  While some talented chefs are pointed and- dare I say- egotistical, he proved to be the opposite.  He graciously answered my questions and offered up a wealth of information.  Recently I've been learning about seafood and breaking down fish, so he told me about the enormous fresh fish market the team visits in Brooklyn.  He revealed that they made an incredible find there, fresh conch, and were in the process of braising it for dinner that night.  Conch is rare and preparing it is a tedious task; the entire process of cleaning one shell yields only an ounce or two of meat.  He peaked my curiosity so much that I returned during dinner service for the chance to try it.

The amount of meat that comes from one conch shell

Scott did incredible service to the exceptional ingredient.  He made a paella-like mixture with the braised fish, succulent rice, peppers, and spices.  He even incorporated a touch of freshly made bouillabaisse sauce.  The whole mixture was then returned to the shell and finished with a layer of toasted breadcrumbs.  The few ounces of rendered conch meat thus transformed into a rich, decadent, plate that exuded heat and flavor.  I was impressed that Scott created a warm, spicy dish from the conch- a perfect combination for a chilly winter's day.  I associate rarer types of seafood with light, barely cooked crudos, and was thrilled to encounter such a wonderfully unexpected preparation.

Top Photo: Conch, sherry pairing, and scallop ceviche (Left to Right)
Below: Conch

I left Barcelona on Saturday night inspired, amazed, and eager to start braising!  (I'm sure my landlord will be thrilled since braising requires high heat, flaming burners, and an assortment of spices that will permeate through the building!)  I am so grateful to Chef Scott for sharing his vast knowledge with us and to the Barcelona staff for making us feel at home.  I plan on signing up for cooking classes to come, and certainly recommend them to culinary amateurs and veterans alike!

Barcelona Website: http://www.barcelonawinebar.com/
Barcelona Class and Event Calendar: http://www.barcelonawinebar.com/calendar.htm

Barcelona Stamford
222 Summer St.
Stamford, CT 06901
203-348-4800



Dining By Design: New Year's Eve at Ginny's Supper Club and Red Rooster

New Year's Eve at Ginny's Supper Club

Even though a new year was fast approaching, I felt like I had travelled back in time to a bygone era.  While Red Rooster is a revered gourmet restaurant, it has the vibe of a Harlem night spot from the roaring twenties.  Hosts in classic attire greeted us and took our coats.  A hat stand with actual old school top hats and trench coats made it seem as though flappers and jazz legends were already being entertained inside.  Vintage memorabilia and photographs adorned the shelves and walls while Soul train played on a small VCR.

 

The time transport was complete when the host led us down the stairs and into a red, dimly lit hallway where another woman in black and lace looked up our names.  She led us into a glamorous speakeasy, with sparkling lights, old-fashioned bars, and golden tones.  This downstairs area, known as Ginny's Supper Club, is the young vibrant sister of Red Rooster.  It, too, is owned by acclaimed Chef Marcus Samuelsson.  He describes it as "an intimate lounge with a warm bourbon glow and an even warmer welcome."  While it offers delicious cocktails and food from the culinary icon, it regularly features live music.  The entertainment mirrors the ambiance, embracing the jazz and soul that defined the time period.

 

My friend and I selected Ginny's Supper Club as the place to ring in the new year.  Marcus Samuelsson held celebrations in both Red Rooster and Ginny's, but we chose Ginny's because of the festive additions.  The upstairs was decorated and bustling, but downstairs DJ Scratch played old school tunes, bartenders tended prohibition-inspired ornate countertops, and leather booths left guests free to lounge.  Even though everyone was dressed to impress and the room was elegant and classy, the aura still felt laid back.

Both spaces offered prix fixe 3 course meals, with the option of two seatings.  The first, which cost $75, could begin anytime between 7 and 8pm.  The tables remained until 9:30pm.  Then, the second seating started at 10.  For $150, guests enjoyed the same food as well as an open bar until 2am.  DJ Scratch started spinning at the first seating, and the music built over the course of the evening.  By the time midnight hit, live music and Superhero DJ Jon Quick would be hosting a full out party.

We chose the first seating so that we could have a festive night out with delicious food, music, and company, but still be back home to see the ball drop with our loved ones.  (We also figured we could avoid any drunken lunatics we might encounter on a late train ride home out of NYC after the ball drop.)

We began the evening with a glass of Prosecco, toasting to the year gone by and the one ahead.  While the name slips my mind (forgive me, I was in celebration-mode!), it was perfectly balanced.  It had just enough amounts of fruit, crispness, and bubble without becoming overpowering.  At $11 a glass, it was not indordinately expensive for a New Year's Eve sparkler.

The restaurant had another special spirit available that night, a Swedish beverage called glogg that I just encountered for the first time at a Christmas party about a week ago.  Samuelsson served it as tribute to his Swedish heritage, as he frequently integrates both Swedish and Ethiopian touches into his cuisine.  The drink is a mulled red wine with spices like cloves and cinnamon.  Aquavit (or brandy or vodka in some versions) makes it especially robust.  Almonds and raisins provide the finishing touch.  The glogg was brewed fresh behind the upstairs bar all night by a charming bartender. The warm glass mug was a great choice for patrons coming in from the cold winter air.  Although we did not have it when we entered, we went back to the bar on the way out for a final warm drink before the chilly walk back to the train.


Cornbread and rolls

After the bubbly arrived, our served delivered a delicious bread plate.  It had four rolls of two varieties: a salted rosemary roll and a mini piece cornbread.  The cornbread resembled madeleine cookies in size and shape.  It tasted like authentic home-style cooking, but a few corn kernels baked in set it apart and reminded us that we were, in fact, in an upscale gourmet restaurant.  The salted rosemary roll was the true prize though.  The top was slightly crisp and the inside proved perfectly flaky.  The top was salted, seasoned, and slightly oiled.  At the same time, the petite size kept it from being overly filling or rich in any way.

I decided on the "lump crab cake with citrus relish and old baby aioli" as an appetizer. Normally a crab cake would be too much for my stomach (which is sensitive to dairy and fried food), but when I saw citrus relish I surmised that the preparation would probably be more delicate in order to compliment the accompaniment.  I guessed correctly; the cakes were light, texturally delicate, and derived flavor from careful seasoning rather than a fried preparation.  I relished the relish (tee-hee), which included finely cut cucumbers, peppers, citrus (grapefruit maybe, more fancy than a regular orange), cilantro, and onion.  The onion was only slightly detectable, a trait I admired.  It enhanced the relish rather than overpowering my taste buds and leaving me dreading what my breath might smell like the next morning.


Crabcakes with aioli on the side

I would also like to point out that you read correctly when you saw the word "cakes."  While some gourmet restaurants skimp on the portions, Samuelsson was generous with his appetizers and throughout the evening.  The "lump crab cake" was actually two medallions.  Like the rolls that came before, the amount gave me the opportunity to enjoy it all without filling me up for the next phase of the meal.

Jerked bobo chicken with plantain twill

Next, the server presented me with Samuelsson's famous "Jerked Bobo Chicken."  Really, they could have called it chickens; twin breasts appeared on the plate in front of me.  Each bite contained a harmonious spice blend that paid tribute to both Ethiopian and Southern cooking styles.  A long delicate plantain twill sat atop it as a decorative, yet delicious, touch.  I loved the preparation; it was exceptionally moist and probably baked.  Still, it managed to avoid any trace of oil or grease.  I savored every last morsel.  Literally!

As a sweet ending to the meal and 2012, every guest received "a duo of sweets."  Although labeled a duo, it actually contained three components: a creamsicle, sorbet, and chocolate caramel tart.  I fell in love with the sorbet.  It originally appeared as a "champagne sorbet" on the pre-published menu, but the actual event involved "kir royale sorbet."  It was luscious and flavorful, exuding decadent notes without ever become overpoweringly sweet.  I would certainly count that singular component as one of the best desserts I have had during 2012.  The chocolate caramel tart came in second.  It hovered between fudge, mousse, and brownie.  It was by far the richest item on the plate, but again the small portion made it beautiful rather than exceedingly rich.  The caramel added a subtle, seasonal twist to the chocolate that I delighted in.



Dessert: Kir Royale sorbet (top left) on top of the creamsicle, with tart at right

The food, music, ambiance, and company would have made the evening perfect as it was.  However, the true highlight of the night came when I glimpsed Marcus Samuelsson.  Fashionable and dapper, he wore red pants, a suit, and a red tie for the celebratory occasion.  He seemed to float around the room as if wearing an invisibility cloak.  One second he was jovially conversing with a server- then he was gone.  He then suddenly reappeared with his arm around the DJ- only to vanish again.  "He's like a ninja," my friend chuckled.  All of a sudden he reappeared at our table, shaking our hands and thanking us for coming.  "I love your dress," he said to me sincerely.  "It's gorgeous."  He has impeccable style himself, so I took that as a deep compliment.  "Well, I loved your chicken," I said.  "I ate every last morsel."  He smiled, posed for a picture, and vanished again.

And so it goes with the years of our lives.  They arrive in fanfare and glory, but then, as quick as they come, become memories.  Suddenly another one announces itself and celebration ensues, until that, too, passes:

Should auld acquaintance be forgot,
And never brought to mind?
Should auld acquaintance be forgot,
And auld lang syne!

For auld lang syne, my dear,
For auld lang syne.
We'll take a cup o' kindness yet,
For auld lang syne

Ginny's Supper Club
310 Lenox Avenue
212.421.3821
info@ginnyssupperclub.com
http://www.ginnyssupperclub.com/